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When you ohmed out the fuse did you remove one wire from it?
This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Also when checking for closed contacts use the most sensitive scale on your meter.
If fuse checks OK then check the door switch.
If the fuse is blown.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off (fuse) blows.
The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the cut-off did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.
Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.
If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
The unit then rumns off the hi-limit till it blows.
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Originally Posted by: LucasC  there are two fuses shown is there only one needed for my model? cant find second fuse if it is needed. only the one in the heater housing and if i short the thermal fuse wires would that be easier way of knowing if it really is fuse? Lucas, Yes, Jumping, bypassing (shorting) the fuse wires, will be an easier way of testing the fuse. Just wanted to give you the opportunity . The Hi limit / thermo fuse kit does contain 2 fuses, one fuse is for a Gas dryer, and the other is for an Electric dryer, but you need to repalce both parts if that fuse is open. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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there are two fuses shown is there only one needed for my model? cant find second fuse if it is needed. only the one in the heater housing and if i short the thermal fuse wires would that be easier way of knowing if it really is fuse?
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Originally Posted by: LucasC Dryer is getting no power. Stopped in middle of a load of clothes. No light coming on inside dryer, dryer wont turn on nothing. No breaker tripped either. I took thermostat, heating elemen,t and thermal fuse out of heater housing. I checked the thermal fuse and mutimeter is showing it is still good. what could be my problem? Lucas, Did you check the power cord for damage, and 220 - 240 VAC at the dryer terminal block on the back of the dryer ? Based on your info, if you have the proper voltage at the terminal block, you're going to need the thermo fuse kit, Part number: AP4242472
I have found that fuse will circuit check OK, and still be bad. Good luck, :) :) :)
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Dryer is getting no power. Stopped in middle of a load of clothes. No light coming on inside dryer, dryer wont turn on nothing. No breaker tripped either. I took thermostat, heating elemen,t and thermal fuse out of heater housing. I checked the thermal fuse and mutimeter is showing it is still good. what could be my problem?
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