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Your new start device should look identical to the old one AP5178110 It has one set of pins that the fridg connector plugs into and two others where the run capacitor plugs into. If not, you will have problems.
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Originally Posted by: magician59  Look for a small dameter stiff wire clip around the plastic cover. Roll it off the cover and it should come off to expose the parts you need to replace. I got the cover off - boy is it a tight fit in there - and of course the cover has a picture of where to put a screw driver to pop the cover, only the picture is not visible due to the orientation of the relay/ol device! At any rate I do appreciate you responding back. If it's not to much trouble maybe you have some advice on how to wire the substitute part that was sent to me. My refrig is at Rev. 13; all the parts sites I look at have parts diagrams for Rev 10, Rev 15 and Rev 18. I had the recall tech come out in 2009 and assumed he performed the recall (posible fire hazard w/ the relay). But when I look at the parts that are there they match the pictures of the parts you use for Rev 10. Now when I ordered the Rev 10 part I was sent a substitute, 60006022, that doesn't have as many terminal points as there are wires from the old setup. There are only two terminal lugs on the new part, one of which I have figured out gets the blue wire from the old overload unit. What I can't figure out is what to do with the remaining two wires, one is a short white jumper wire that connects tto two orange wires, the other is a white wire. The substitute unit plugs onto the three compressor posts (that form a V) so that's simply enough, but how the heck do I handle the remaining two female connectors with only one remaining male lug (located on the relay). Was I shipped the wrong part? Know of any sites with pictures I can view? Thanks. Sorry for the length.
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The start device may be arc welded to the compressor pins. Bust off what you can and use a dremel with grindstone to dress up the compressor pins.
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Look for a small dameter stiff wire clip around the plastic cover. Roll it off the cover and it should come off to expose the parts you need to replace.
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Originally Posted by: richappy The two wires to the start device are not polarity sensitive, but the white wire usually goes to the overload device, the other one to the start device.
Make sure the tech wired or plugged in the run capacitor if your fridg had one. I'm new to the site and I think I just jumped onto some one elses' questions. Please, all forgive me. I have a similiar problem. Have the above model and compressor. Lost electrical power when Hurr. Irene hit us. The compresor would not start when power was restored. Fan runs fine and as soon as the refrig. is plugged into the wall (I'm not sure if that is correct or not). I ordered and have the start capacitor and relay/overload part in hand. The cap replacement is straightforward but for the life of me I can't seem to get the relay device off of the compressor. Based on the new one it seems it should just pull straight out of the compressor, but darned if I can do that. Orange and white wires enter through a slot in what I think is a cover, but can't get thqat off either! I'm almost embrassed to say that I have some pretty decent electrical/electronic in my background so changing the relay device whouldn't be this hard, but is is!. Can someone tell me how to get the cover off and pull the relay?:mad:
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The two wires to the start device are not polarity sensitive, but the white wire usually goes to the overload device, the other one to the start device.
Make sure the tech wired or plugged in the run capacitor if your fridg had one.
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No splices in wires.
Tested evap motor supplying seperate 115V supply and it won't run - so buying a new one tomorrow. Don't know if the tech could have caused it or not. But the motor was running up until the time I unplugged the fridge in prep for the service call, just strange that after he did his thing the motor is bad !! Still not sure about wiring of the relay here is a web site I found showing pictures of old relay and new replacement kit. You can clearly see that the ORANGE wire is connected to the top leaf of the old relay but in the discussion of the new replacement relay you can see the orange wires will be connected to the top right and not the top left as I would have expected. And this is how the tech wired mine - does the new relay work in a different manner than the old one and the plugging on the compressor doesn't matter I.E. not polarity sensative.
Still confused. Again if anyone could take time to send pictures of new relay installed so I can compare I would appreciate it.
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The two evaporator motor wires are blue and orange. They get spliced together with the condensing fan motor. He probably did a bad splice job by the compressor, just check.
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I need to know on the MTB2156GEW what wires go where. I had the recall tech come out and replace the overload/relay part 4SP1088. I could have sworne that the orange wires were connected to the top left point of the compressor. There are three connections on the compressor, two on top and one on bottom forming a V. The tech installed the seperate overoad onto the bottom connection of the compressor and attached a blue wire which I believe is correct. He then attached the relay to the top 2 pins on the compressor, with the little plastic tab on the relay pointing downward which again I believe is correct. He then attached the white wire from th old 4SP100 to the top left connection of the relay/compressor. Attached the little white extension wire to the top right of the relay/compressor connection and plugged it into the two orange wire pair. I want to know if the wires are connected properly. The reason I ask is the evap fan doesn't blow now it ran constantly until he did what he did. Now it won't run and it's been over 12 hrs and freezer is cold but not capable of freezing anything yet. The tech told me the evap fan won't come on till the freezer gets cold enough but wiring diags on the internet show it being wired in parallel with condenser motor and should run when the condenser motor runs but doesn't. As I said it ran before he did what he did and the fridge/freezer wasn't working then.
HELP
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You will need a meter to wire in the new parts if they are different from the factory part. I assume the old start device was a white box that just plugged in.
If you have no meter, you can still wire it up.If you still have the old start device, let me know so I can help.
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