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My symptoms were the same. At first I noticed more and more noise caused by bearings going bad but it still worked. Then on a high speed spin the banging started. In my case the seal failed, which caused the bearing to start to fail, the along came the corrosion of the spider. I tried looking around everywhere to get just a new spider and no luck. The PN on the spider itself is 131450000. I phoned Sears (I'm in Canada) and asked about a warranty and they said they don't have Lifetime warranties on anything except hand tools so I was SOL. A new stainless drum and rear plastic drum would be $366, and just the rear drum with seal and bearings would be $255. They said they didn't sell just the stainless drum/spider but it appears others do.
So - I made my own spider with some 1.5" steel channel, a bit of round pipe and some 3/4" steel angle. The steel shaft does break out of the aluminium spider assembly with some effort and fit nicely into my round pipe. I put a bit of electrical tape around the shaft for a nice tight fit into the steel pipe which I cut about 2" long. I cut 3/4" angle iron into 3" pieces and drilled and tapped for M8 bolts (metric) to reuse the OEM bolts, which holds the existing spider, to thread into. I bolted the 3 of these into the drum and then also bolted these to the 1 1/2" channels (about 12" long). The other end of these channels got welded to the round pipe holding the shaft which was also welded into the pipe. I painted it and all works awesome. I took great care to make sure it was balanced and needed to put 2 washers under one of the channel arms where it was bolted to the angle iron.
After building and assembling it, I realized why the spider is not a separate part available to purchase (other than trying to get you to buy a new washer) - the reason I think is that when the stainless drum is bolted into the OEM spider, the bolts stretch the stainless drum around the bolt hole into the spider so removal without breaking it would be almost impossible - and so installing a new spider would also be very diffficult if not impossible because of the stainless drum material being pressed into the spider when the bolts get tightened. (Kind of dificult to describe but it you remove a bolt you will see the deformation of the stainless which kind of protrudes into the spider.)
Anyway - I'm happy so far with the new steel spider and have done about 5 washes - eventually with a high speed spin! I also installed a new seal and the 2 drum bearings. For my washer, the Seal is a TC 40x80x10 and the bearings are 6307 2RS and 6303 3RS. Pretty cheap on ******** or Aliexpress. My washer is a Canadian model PN 970-C41072-00 which I believe crosses to a 417-41052-00 but it appears that many use this drum assembly. My washer is indentical to the once shown in the video on this thread. This site has a great dissassemby video as does Youtube and it isn't too difficult if you want to give it a try. What have you got to lose - the washer is close to NFG if you are reading this anyway. If you have access to a welder and a grinder building your own isn't hard either - just take care to balance it so it rotates without wobbling although I really wonder how critical this is because many times the laundry makes the tub off balance too. Sorry - no pictures - I can't find anywhere to attach. Have a look on Youtube to see what others have built - that is where I got the confidence to build my own. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by: David F  Should there be any sign of corrosion of your spider that may have conributed to the failure of the seal and bearings. The product of corrosion of the aluminium alloy spider is aluminium oxide, the same 'stuff' that provides the 'grit' in sandpaper. Get some of that in the washing/rinsing water and I do not think the soft lips of the seal will last very long, thus letting water into the bearings. Everyone's on target, today. A lot of good information, but not too many alternatives. I'm sure someone out there may have more reccomendations, or alternatives. but at this point, you've got a good size repair on your hands. Good Luck,
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Originally Posted by: dwd2010 Update: I disassembled my washer and found inner metal tub had one of the three "spider arms" broken. I put quotations cuz I previously said in post #24 that they were ok:eek: . I was thinking the "spider arms" were the pulley arms radiating out from the bolt location. After disassembling and re-reading this thread I realized my error.
Anyhow, I now am afraid I need inner metal basket and outer plastic w bearings:( Sounding cheaper to scrap:confused: and get a new. Not sure bout bearings , maybe only this broken arm causing all the problems, or maybe bad bearings caused broken arm:confused: Kinda like the chicken and the egg question Should there be any sign of corrosion of your spider that may have conributed to the failure of the seal and bearings. The product of corrosion of the aluminium alloy spider is aluminium oxide, the same 'stuff' that provides the 'grit' in sandpaper. Get some of that in the washing/rinsing water and I do not think the soft lips of the seal will last very long, thus letting water into the bearings.
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Update: I disassembled my washer and found inner metal tub had one of the three "spider arms" broken. I put quotations cuz I previously said in post #24 that they were ok:eek: . I was thinking the "spider arms" were the pulley arms radiating out from the bolt location. After disassembling and re-reading this thread I realized my error.
Anyhow, I now am afraid I need inner metal basket and outer plastic w bearings:( Sounding cheaper to scrap:confused: and get a new. Not sure bout bearings , maybe only this broken arm causing all the problems, or maybe bad bearings caused broken arm:confused: Kinda like the chicken and the egg question
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Thanks for your response Joe!!
Going to disassemble just for the "fun" of it and see what I see. I'll report back what I find!!
Thanks again! Dirk
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Dirk, I have to agree, sounds like a bad tub bearing to me as well. You'll need to order the rear tub assembly, in order to get the tub bearing and seal assembly, Part number: AP2578105
That's the only way the manufacturer supplys the needed parts. I guess you'll want to think that over, but it is a doable repair, and makes for a nice "Weekend Project". Good Luck and Thanks,
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Just a little update, I can now get inner metal tub to put out a steady squealing sound even by maunually turning drum. I've taken the black rubber door seal loose and pushed it inside metal tub so as to rule out any possible rubbing. That squealing is sure hard to pinpoint cuz I believe its like an echo chamber in the whole setup. Sure sounds like a bad bearing though. Tried spraying some silicon spray onto the shaft in back but no help.
I sure hope I don't have to buy a whole plactic outer drum to fix those bearings??!!
Tia, Dirk
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I too have this exact same noise but only when washer goes to highest spin rate during spin cycle!! Have ruled out previously mentioned possiblilites. My spider arms in good shape. I'm suspecting bad bearings but can not duplicate sound by turning manually. I say bearings from my limited mechanical experience with other type bearings on cars etc.
The outer plastic tub will shake excessively and grinding noise will accompany this excessive shaking. I see a little oil fluid (dime size) which I assume has come from bearing point?
Before tackling this I would like to know if bearings can be replaced without replacing whole plastic outer tub? Given the above referenced tear down procedure feel confident I can do this!! Thanks for this great referenced site and easy parts look up site!! Truly Dirk
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Originally Posted by: inetjnky I have this exact same washer. I currently have it in pieces in my basement. I recently replaced the seals including the overflow piece at the top of the tub as these were leaking previously. This washer is 10 years old now. The problem that I'm having now is like someone else mentioned, I had a ton of crud build up on the inside of the spider and my bearings are shot now. The arms on the steel tub are fine, they're not cracked and there isn't hardly any build up on them and they're not pitted. I used a pressure washer to remove the crap that was on them and remove the mold build up on the inside of the outer tub.
My question really is this... would it be worth it to spend the $160+ on a new outer tub and fix this washer (works fine otherwise) or scrap it and just buy a new machine? The instructions mention that if you replace the outer tub with the bearings, you may need to replace the inner tub as well? Why would I need to do this? Would, the bearings failing cause the shaft of the inner tub to not be true?
Would appreciate your thoughts on this if possible. Thanks!
Jason Jason, 99 % of the time, you don't need the inner tub assembly. As long as there is no discoloration on the shaft, as long as there are no deep grooves or "spawling" on the shaft, and you can "clean up" the shaft with some emory cloth and penetrating oil,you won't need a new spin basket. As a repair technician, it's something you need to consider when servicing this type of unit, so you don't inconvenience the consumer, with additional expense and time required to properly repair the unit.
Good Luck and Thanks,
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