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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman	Posted: Wednesday, January 7, 2009 2:03:52 AM(UTC)
	Yes I agree with you. Check the wires from the control board down to each component for continuity. If all OK then by the process of elimination all that would be left is the board itself. The board looks like it has two relays on it, one of them is probably for the heating element. The board is going to run $150.00 approximately, so now you have to decide is it worth putting that many dollars into the unit?
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Klavender	Posted: Tuesday, January 6, 2009 4:32:13 PM(UTC)
	I have not given up or fixed it yet.... I checked the thermistor and the resistance changed with a change in temperature. The resistance was around 80k. (80 on the Rx1k scale). I also waited until the Heating Delay light came on and read across the heater and across the heater and the thermostat, neither resulted in a voltage measurement with the washer running. For some reason I do not have an allen wrench the right size to take apart the door. I will get that tomorrow. I am going to check the connector(s) on the control card that are associated with the heater and thermostat and run a continuity check through the whole loop if possible. I guess that if the connector is good and the continuity of the whole loop is good then I am looking at a new control card….. Thoughts????[FONT=&quot][/FONT]
denman	Posted: Sunday, January 4, 2009 10:59:53 AM(UTC)
	Been trying to find some additional info for you, have had no success. Next I would check the thermistor Also check across the heating element for volts when it should be on just to make sure that it is not getting voltage and we are looking in the wrong area.
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Klavender	Posted: Saturday, January 3, 2009 8:24:58 AM(UTC)
	OK, I only have a x1K scale on my analog meter but the resistance of the limit thermostat is 0 ohms and the resistance of the heating element is about a needles width greater in resistance which should equate to about 10 to 30 ohms. Where to next?
denman	Posted: Saturday, January 3, 2009 4:31:08 AM(UTC)
	Here is your parts breakdown includes a wiring diagram Model MDB7100AWQ Check the heating element (10 to 30 ohms) and the limit thermostat (0 ohms) Remember to disconnect at least one side of any device you measure to ensure you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path. Also remove power from the unit (leave door slightly open)
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Klavender	Posted: Friday, January 2, 2009 1:20:44 PM(UTC)
	[FONT=&quot]I have a Maytag Dishwasher Model Number MDB7100AWQ that has a heating element that is no longer working. First indication of a problem was that the liquid soap was leaving deposits on some dishes. In troubleshooting I am running a Light Wash with Heated Dry selected. The dishwasher operated normally until the timer hit 37 minutes and the Heating Delay light came on. It has been like that for way more than expected. The water temperature is not increasing perceptibly if at all.[/FONT] [FONT=&quot] [/FONT] [FONT=&quot]What is the next step to narrowing down any control card, thermostat or heater failure(s)? [/FONT]

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