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your very welcome. Glad it worked out.
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Ok Cammyj, installed new switch (with a little difficulty) as I could not seem to get the switch to stay in until I backed it up a little after pushing it into the slots. Anyway, the washing machine is working like new. I cant thank you enough, I'm sure I saved a $100 bucks. Took the old switch apart, no fuse, but there was a burn mark on the plastic cover just below one of the contacts.
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Yeah, its a remove and replace era, once I disassembled a timer motor for a dishwasher and found the "plastic" gear that was missing 2 teeth, so, I took the part to a appliance parts store and the guy laughed at me, and told me that I had to buy the complete new timer motor.......I guess thats how companies stay in business, make cheap parts that will break. Years ago everything was made of metal. Oh well, progress......I'll let ya know how I made out tomorrow. thanks, Jim
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you know i have never tore one open. You will have to tell me after your replacement is in and working.
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Hey, thanks, you da man. Just being inquisitive, is there a fuse inside the lid switch?, as it is marked 125V, 10.5A, 60 cycle
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replace the lid switch and you should be good.
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Ok, ohm'd out door switch. Nothing between Line and any other terminal. Nothing between Neutral and any other terminal. Only continuity is between motor and machine terminals, with plunger pushed in during continuity test.
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no problem, that switch was a common problem on the Maytags. 15 year plus Maytag factory repairman and i was never lonely like the guy in the commercials.
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Ok, thanks, now all I gotta do is find my ohm meter.....lol
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Ok that is the newer style of lid switch assy and it will prevent the machine from doing anything including fill, spin. It would be a good bet that the switch would need to be replaced. You can however ohm the switch out to be sure if you have the wiring diagram for your washer.
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