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OK, thank you richappy for all your responses and help with this, I do appreciate it!
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Ok there, if you want to fix it yourself, you will need an amp probe and good digital meter.You will need these to properly test the current draw and to change to a discrete ptc start device.
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It always ran with a capacitor in it.
I had ordered the two parts (relay and capacitor), but just put the new relay in first, because I wasn’t sure what was causing the problem. These parts were factory recommended identical to the ones I took out, and I had done a drawing on where the wires were supposed to go.
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Failure to put the run capacitor in probably damaged the compressor windings. The compressor is designed to require a run capacitor to aid in poor starting conditions and re-start while still under high pressure. It is now basically a hard starting compressor.
One fix is to install a lower resistance ptc as mentioned in my article "replacing compressor start devices", just put that in the fridg search box.
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There was a light frost throughout all the fins. I’m taking it that would be the good news!
When I first plugged it in there was a few clicks and then it ran just fine for 5 hours or so until it reached the designated temperature before shutting off. Each time it came on there were more clicks and the temp started to warm up on the thermometer I put in the frig.
[FONT="]Do you have any other ideas on this? Thank you I appreciate your help! [/FONT]
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thank you richappy, I will try that!
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Pull the back freezer panel and check the frost pattern. If a little bit of frost at the input tubing, and no other frost, you either have a bad compressor, or it ran out of refrigerant due to a leak.
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I have a Kenmore bottom freezer refrigerator (Model #59679142990 MFG #P1321804TW) that does not cool, and just keeps blowing warm air, with a clicking noise in the back by the compressor every minute or so.
So I bought a start relay(#10097204) and a capacitor (#65889-4) from you about a month ago. I put the relay in and it worked perfect for about 3 weeks, ya! Then it started blowing warm air again (it continues to run) and clicking every so often as before.
After that I did put the capacitor in, but that didn’t change anything. And prior to all this, I replaced the defrost timer, with no change.
My limited knowledge of ohm testing:
-the compressor showed both the ‘start’ and ‘run’ had a reading of about .5x10, and the ground test showed no movement on the needle.
-the overload switch read ‘0’.
-have not found how to test the ‘solid state’ relay.
Some things that I have observed:
-both the fans are running
-the light switches are working
-the compressor is warm, not hot, and humming/vibrating
-the condenser coils have been cleaned
Could this problem be the ‘overload’? it did check out on the ohm meter. Your help would be much appreciated, I am out of ideas on what could be wrong with this frig!
Thanks!
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just letting everyone know that the overload switch was the problem. frig running good. thank you for taking your time with this.
Chris
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thank you. i'll let you know what happens,part should be here today.
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