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Originally Posted by: dbeard48  ...The only thing left would be the Thermostat ... Might be some time in the future :) You are welcome. Keep us posted. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene This is absolutely correct result. You did disconnect the wires from the gas valve or in the other word you broke the ignition circuit. That means there is no any electric current flows.
The best way to determine if the problem is a weak igniter or a bad (stuck) gas valve is to measure the current drawn by the igniter.
Gene. Thanks Gene in ordre to keep my Brain intact I am going to order both the igniter and valve so I should be good to go. Since this stove has to last the rest of my life. Thank's again;) P.S The only thing left would be the Thermostat Right?.
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Originally Posted by: dbeard48 ...I disconnected the valve red and white wires with the igniter still hooked up and read the voltage with an ome meter 122vac... This is absolutely correct result. You did disconnect the wires from the gas valve or in the other word you broke the ignition circuit. That means there is no any electric current flows. The best way to determine if the problem is a weak igniter or a bad (stuck) gas valve is to measure the current drawn by the igniter. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene How did you measure the voltage to the gas valve?
The gas valve is wired in series with the igniter. The igniter has much higher resistance than the gas valve (almost 0) which reducing the voltage to the gas valve. Ok I see.
What about the thermostat? 120vac on the red wire when turned on black wire 120vac turned off. the glow plug goes up and down when you turn the knob act's like a reastat. At one time I could tap on the valve and the oven would lite. lower the thermostat and it would go off and the glow plug would get dim turn it back up and glow plug would get brite but would not come back on unless I tap on it again. The glow plug doesn't get white hot just a brite orange. at one time I could here clicking coming from around the thermastat.
Gene. I disconnected the valve red and white wires with the igniter still hooked up and read the voltage with an ome meter 122vac. Please read some answers in your reply above.
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How did you measure the voltage to the gas valve?
The gas valve is wired in series with the igniter. The igniter has much higher resistance than the gas valve (almost 0) which reducing the voltage to the gas valve.
What about the thermostat?
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene This problem has nothing to do with the voltage. When the igniter is on and glows it suppose to draw more than 3.2 amps in order to open the gas valve. In this situation most likely the igniter is weak. The correction is to replace the igniter. - The oven igniter Part number: AP4012072
I hope this work's. what about the thermostat?. And the valve states warning do not use over 3.3vac(I may be reading this wrong) when every thing going down to the valve and igniter is 120vac this don't make sence to me this is what it said on the valve Do Not Apply 120vac to valve 3.03vac 3.3/3.6 AMP 60HZ. I just don't want to blow up the valve. Thank's gene.
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This problem has nothing to do with the voltage. When the igniter is on and glows it suppose to draw more than 3.2 amps in order to open the gas valve. In this situation most likely the igniter is weak. The correction is to replace the igniter. - The oven igniter Part number: AP4012072
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I have 2 Questions 1. Were does the 3.3 volts come from for the oven valve? 2. What part(s) do I need to fix my problem. I am getting to much voltage to the valve 122v and should be 3.3. acording to my meater the golw plus lites but no gas comes out the valve. Help Please P.S. All the top burners lite fine and the glow plug glows bright.
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