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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
heyrob2 Posted: Sunday, November 28, 2010 6:06:39 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here is the parts breakdown
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL DUL300XTKT0 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

I doubt that you will have to pull the unit.

Remove the kick plate and check that you have power to the unit
If OK and wire nuts are OK.
Remove the inner door panel and check the thermal fuse (Item 6 in Section 2).
If blown check for any signs of overheating/damage on the control board.
Be sure to use the new harness when replacing the fuse.

It is fairly common for these to blow on their own.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.


Thanks for the info. went into the box and found burnt connection and corrected it. Works perfect again. Thanks for the quick reply...
denman Posted: Sunday, November 28, 2010 12:55:05 AM(UTC)
 
Here is the parts breakdown
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL DUL300XTKT0 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

I doubt that you will have to pull the unit.

Remove the kick plate and check that you have power to the unit
If OK and wire nuts are OK.
Remove the inner door panel and check the thermal fuse (Item 6 in Section 2).
If blown check for any signs of overheating/damage on the control board.
Be sure to use the new harness when replacing the fuse.

It is fairly common for these to blow on their own.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
heyrob2 Posted: Saturday, November 27, 2010 9:25:41 AM(UTC)
 
In The Middle Of A Cycle Our Dw Stopped Working..did A Power Reset..nothing..did A Secquence Reset Also..nothing..tried To Review All The Blogs But Could Not Find One With This Problem On This Model...whirlpool Recommened A Service Teck But I Am To Handy For This..can You Help With-out Pulling Out The Unit As My First Step??...thanks