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Typically the tube will clog within 6 inches of the box but anything is possible. In any case it seems you have a water valve problem. If the water fails to turn off when you unplug the washer the water valve is bad. The water should stop within 2 seconds or less. Part Details - GE Washer water inlet valve, part number: AP3861119
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Ok, the water continued to run for several seconds after unplugging the washer. It happened every time I tried it. On the replacement parts diagram I see a water level switch (ap2045895). Is this what I need?
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The tubes connecting to the small box on the left are not clogged, but I haven't taken the washer apart enough to see if it is clogged from the inside. Is that a possibility? We have three dogs and four humans, all of whom seem to shed a lot.
I'll check the water cut off switch as per your suggestion. Again, thanks for your time!
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The brakes are not bad if that is the case. Seems the water level is the problem.
Just so I am clear on the tube it is the one that connects to the box looking thing at the bottom left of the tub. Be 100% sure this tube isn’t clogged before moving on. Typically it will clog with grease but sometimes it is hair, which can be hard to see. I carry this tube on the truck at all times but typically I can clean it out with a stiff wire. If you are unsure replace the tube because it is cheaper than the control or the water valve and it only takes a little clog to cause it to overflow what little bit you are talking about. You also need to check to see if the nipple that the tube connects to is clear.
Start the washer then turn the washer on and off repeatedly (you can unplug if you like). Each time you turn it off (or unplug it) the water should stop right then. If it continues to run, for more than a few seconds replace the water valve. If it stops immediately each time then you can assume the water level control is bad. The water level controls do not fail often but I sometimes the water valves stick for a while after the power is removed This will cause the water level to be higher than normal which can cause water to run out of the overflow tube.
[FONT='Times New Roman']This is or can be intermitting which is why I say do it repeatedly so make sure you do the test enough times that you are satisfied that valve is working. But if it fails the test just one time replace the valve. [/FONT]
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ApplianceMan: You appear to be the GE guru.You've posted a couple really useful links regarding GE...I'm more of a Maytag guy. I'm going to shut up and listen in on this one.
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Ok, I have found the water level to be above the holes in the drum, which is apparently higher than usual due to a visible water line on the tub. No tubes on the left side are clogged. The drum inside the tub does move about a half inch back and forth during agitation, but it is definitely not spinning.
Any more tips? Thanks for what you have already posted!
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I wasn’t insulted. I was just kidding.
To be honest I really didn’t know there was a difference in the two words, centripetal and centrifugal [FONT='Times New Roman'](I did hit dictionary.com after you said something)[/FONT]. Maybe this conversation will make me look smarter in the future. I guess I still got the point across even if it were the wrong use of the word but it would have looked better if I used the right word.
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No insult was intended. Your English was never at issue...this is mere physics.
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Ok… thanks for the English lesson. :rolleyes:
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This is NOT to be nit-picky (OK, it IS a bit nit-picky), or meant to insult anyone's intelligence; but I couldn't leave it alone: The spinning force that causes an outward motion is centrifugal. Centripetal force is directed toward the center.
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