Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Gene Posted: Sunday, November 19, 2017 11:56:52 AM(UTC)
 
The only idea is that it took time for the new ice maker to get used to your refrigerator :)
RodimusPrime98 Posted: Friday, November 17, 2017 6:28:56 AM(UTC)
 
An update.

I did replace the entire ice maker and it had the same phenomenon. It would make and dump 1 tray of ice. Then it would fill and freeze the next tray and never dump it. It would then stay in this state and never make more ice. Both the old and the new ice maker did this exact same process.

Then... after a little more than a week the new ice maker (I never reinstalled the original ice maker) started making ice and has continued working normally for the last few weeks. WEIRD.

Anyone have any thoughts on what was the cause of the ice maker to stop continuing to make ice after dumping the first tray? It might be nice to know in case this current working state is only temporary.

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Disconnect the power supply. Slide the ice maker out and unplug the wire harness. Check for continuity the black wire. If there is no continuity, the ice maker wire harness would need to be replaced.
Otherwise very likely the ice maker control module has gone bad. I would recommend replacing the whole ice maker instead of trying to repair the old one. On the first look the price for the control module $64.98 vs the price for the whole ice maker $117.27. But in order to replace the control module, you also would need to order the new cycling thermostat ($30.49) and the alumilastic cement ($28.65).

The wire harness Part number: AP6019222
Part number: AP6019222



The ice maker Part number: AP6016625
Part number: AP6016625



Gene.
Gene Posted: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 8:47:52 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: RodimusPrime98 Go to Quoted Post
I have a Kitchen-aid KSRP22FTBL01
After recently deep cleaning the entire freezer and refrigerator, the ice maker freezes water but does not dispense it into the ice bucket in the freezer door. When the freezer door is open and the flapper on the left is held down the status LED stay solid red. Is this a control module, motor, or other issue?



Disconnect the power supply. Slide the ice maker out and unplug the wire harness. Check for continuity the black wire. If there is no continuity, the ice maker wire harness would need to be replaced.
Otherwise very likely the ice maker control module has gone bad. I would recommend replacing the whole ice maker instead of trying to repair the old one. On the first look the price for the control module $64.98 vs the price for the whole ice maker $117.27. But in order to replace the control module, you also would need to order the new cycling thermostat ($30.49) and the alumilastic cement ($28.65).

The wire harness Part number: AP6019222
Part number: AP6019222



The ice maker Part number: AP6016625
Part number: AP6016625



Gene.
RodimusPrime98 Posted: Monday, October 23, 2017 5:25:51 PM(UTC)
 
I have a Kitchen-aid KSRP22FTBL01
After recently deep cleaning the entire freezer and refrigerator, the ice maker freezes water but does not dispense it into the ice bucket in the freezer door. When the freezer door is open and the flapper on the left is held down the status LED stay solid red. Is this a control module, motor, or other issue?
bbc3 Posted: Sunday, September 15, 2013 8:09:03 PM(UTC)
 
Hi Gene,

I have a Kennmore Model #106.53652300 (going on TEN Years old). We had the ice maker out of service for almost two years during a kitchen remodel. The fridge was never turned off, but the water line was not reconnected to the ice maker till recently after over the whole time as described above. The ice maker worked normally for a couple of weeks and then stopped. Here are some points I will advise...:

1. The refrigerator always had good water filters. I pretty much removed the stock one and had one of those GE double barrel units under the sink and at the point of origination to the line supplying the fridge.

2. I did have problems with the freezer-to-fridge air duck mechanical unit a couple years prior. I pretty much disconnected everything to the electronic control to the air duct (sliding diffuser). I ordered the replacement part but it did not seem to want to incorporate the electronic motorized portion of the thru wall duct, so i just set it "manual" for a while. THIS WENT ON FOR A COUPLE YEARS PRIOR TO THE EXTENDED WATER LINE ABSENCE. However, I make have only recently just disconnected the Thermistor prior to the reconnection of the water line as it seemed to have no reason for connection any more.

3. Long and short is that the water line to the frige was re-connected recently and now UNFILTERED for the first time ever. It ran correctly for a month tops and then issues. FIRST, It just stopped kicking the ice out after it was ready to bump out. I took the ice maker out a few times washing it out and thawing it, and still the same. The first ice would load and form, but no kick out.

4. It should be noted that I got sloppy and broke the flapper to the Light beam control side (on the left where the four prong connection is. So I took it out of the side of the frige wall for a few days while I glued it back together. When I re-installed it, NOW THE PROBLEM IS NOT ICE AT ALL and as if there is a water supply problem too. AGAIN, the water to the door services to fill a glass still...

5. The water to the door spigot still work to fill a glass of water.

6. I have confirmed that when the door is open and I hold down the flap to block the light - the beam does go thru and IS Acknowledge by the right side (with the on/off switch), as the light stops flashing after 2-3 seconds when observing.

7. I have checked the main ice maker connection and it seems to be fully engaged/connected. Tonight, I Disconnected the side on the left (with 3 screws) and checked to be sure I plugger the 4 prong back up right. The only thing I note different is that I pushed it a mm further than I thought was the previous max "push down". So perhaps.....

8. OTHERWISE, and when I wake in the morning and their is still no ice, do you have any thoughts..?

Thanks in advance!
Bill
Maxima66 Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 5:19:50 PM(UTC)
 
I have a kitchen aid ksrs27ihbt02 side side refrig. Some of the same symptoms that many have posted on this topic. Worked fine dor 10yrs. We lost power a few weeks ago for 3 days. Came back and everything was fine for 10 days. Water then started leaking out of the bucket. Water tray then stopped filling. If I fill with water manually it still will complete cycle and dmp ice in the bucket.

Notes: do not have any emitter lights when I hold light off or door to simulate door closed. Would this mean that control board is fried? Should th light flash or stay on on this model? Fill tube is not frozen

Thanks for your help
Gene Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 3:43:33 PM(UTC)
 
If the water inlet valve is good and the water is coming into the ice maker as soon as the power applied to the solenoid, replace the ice maker.

- The ice maker Part number: AP2984633
Rhoades Posted: Saturday, February 19, 2011 11:18:48 AM(UTC)
 
My ice maker is not making ice. Okay, before I stumbled upon this awesome site I bought a new inlet valve. I connected it and still no ice. Water still not making it up to ice maker. I switched the leads as recommended on here with the old inlet valve reconnected. Water then made it up to the ice maker. So my valve was actually in good shape. What's my next step?
Thank you!
MrFixItAlready! Posted: Monday, January 24, 2011 1:19:29 PM(UTC)
 
Thanks Gene, I'll get that part replaced when I can and post a reply again. However, a $60 part to get the ice maker working is a bit more expensive than a set of $1 ice trays, so it may be a while before I reply again. :p
Gene Posted: Monday, January 24, 2011 12:28:16 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: MrFixItAlready! Go to Quoted Post
My Whirlpool GD2SHGXLB00 side-by-side also does not make any ice. A couple of weeks ago we came home from being out of down for a couple of days and found water all over the floor. The ice maker had either overflowed or just not frozen any of the incoming water for a short period because when we opened the freezer door there was frozen water all over the side of the ice maker, the shelves, the door's shelves, the bottom of the freezer and all of the ice in the tray was frozen into a solid block. The ice maker has not made any ice since then.

After reading through the prior posts, I tried reversing the solenoid connectors for the water fill valve and didn't get any water coming into the ice maker. I checked the line going from the fill valve to the ice maker inlet and haven't found any blockage, though I thought that there might be some frozen water in it somewhere. So what is the likely part that's gone out?


Very likely the water inlet valve was stuck open and then broke. I would just replace the part. You may try to blow some air through the ice maker fill tube while it is disconnected from the water valve to make sure it is not blocked.

- The water inlet valve Part number: AP3160649