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You need to order the piston and nut valve which is located under the screen in the back of the tub. Remove the screen by taking out the two screws the piston and nut is located just under the screen. twist the part out and check the check valve seat it probably is deteriated. replace the part. Should solve your problems
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We have similar dishwasher (GE Quietpower 2 - Model #GLD5560L00SS) and having draining problems as well. Did everything blog suggests and still not draining. Dishwasher is only 2 years + 4 months old. Owners manual NO HELP. I do not want to call in a plumber until I've exhausted everything I can do on my own! PLEASE HELP =) THANKS!!
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Disconnect the drain hose from the air gap (if there is one) or from the garbage disposer, put it in a bucket and push the Cancel button to initiate the drain. Check if it would drain.
Gene. The reason why I asked you to perform this test is to see if the drain pump will engaged by the dishwasher controls. I've read in your post that it did work when you supplied power straight to the pump. Gene.
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On most installations I have seen, the installers have left enough slack in the water feed, electrical hook-up, and drain hose to pull the machine out. First, find the circuit breaker for the machine and turn it off. Also, turn the water supply off. Then, after you remove the toe plate (usually held on with four 1/4 inch hex head screws), Remove the trim screws (6 or more) and screw the front leveling legs clockwise (to shorten them). Now you can pull the machine out. If you have a tile or wood floor, you may want to put a towel under the front feet. This will also facilitate the effort of pulling it out.
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This complaint is typical of a bad timer. the last drain cycle on the timer failed. Bad contact.
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Yes it does pump out during a cycle. Even on a light load setting it will wash,empty,rinse then empty again. On pot scrubber it does this a couple times. You will have to open it up when it does this to check it. It could fill, then wash, then instead of draining it may fill again till it fills up to the point where the float switch trips, shuts off the water valve and then continues with the wash. The unit has no way of knowing if it is full or empty, Filling and draining are simply done by time. The float shut off is usually just a safety device. GE is a royal pain to find wiring diagrams online, I have looked and cannot find a thing. This would be a lot easier with a wiring diagram and timing chart. Though usually they tape it underneath the unit or to the back of the kick plate. Here is a forum post I found which may help even if it does not look like the same model number Appliance Tech\'s Private Board >> GE Dishwasher Drain Problems
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Thanks Denman, yes I have a mutimeter, that's the first thing I did, check if current was getting to the motor. It isn't, that's why I made up a jumper from an old extension cord and went right from the wall outlet (120V) straight to the motor. It works fine, pumps the water out real nice into the disposal. That's the problem, no current to the motor. Like you suggested, I think I'll go back in and ohm out the wiring from the drain motor back to the controller and/or sequence switch. There has to be an open there somewhere, intermittent maybe? That's why I was wondering if anyone had (or could tell me ) a schematic to see if there is anything else in between the motor and controller. I believe though, that when the washer runs, it pumps the water out normally after the wash and rinse, just not on the final phase after it's complete. Doesn't it pump water out several times during the whole cycle?
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Here is the link to your parts Model GSD5500G00BBHere is a link which may help http://www.applianceaid.com/ge-dish.htmlGuessing has cost you a fair chunk of change so I would recommend you purchase a multimeter. Have not noticed any comments about a meter reading in your posts so am assuming you do not have one. You can get a decent multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. You could then attach the leads across your pump motor to confirm that it is not getting voltage when it should. If there is no volts you can then use it in ohms to check the wires. Often you will not be able to tell if a wire is broken just by looking at it. Only things to remember when using ohms is to unplug the unit from power so you do not blow the meter and always unplug one side of any device you are measuring to ensure you are not reading an alternate/parallel circuit path. There is a good sticky about meter usage at the top of this section. Am not sure if your unit has the flapper valve solenoid (on the pump, front left hand side). If it does I am pretty sure this must pull down (opens the flapper) during the drain cycle for proper draining. Perhaps Gene or another contributor could confirm this.
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It does drain. I can see the water flowing into the garbage disposal when I apply 120V directly to the drain motor. That's how I drain it at the end of it's cycle until I can find the problem. It just doesn't drain on it's own.
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Disconnect the drain hose from the air gap (if there is one) or from the garbage disposer, put it in a bucket and push the Cancel button to initiate the drain. Check if it would drain.
Gene.
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