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Originally Posted by: stinkintoad  APP team:
I think you guys were wrong about the resistance check of the tacho-generator on the motor. The schematic supplied with the washer says the tolerance is 184 +- 7 % ohms, not 105-130. This is measured on pins 5 and 6 according to the chart given on the schematic. I was getting 194 ohms, which is in tolerance.
Just so you know, I have 30 yrs experience working on engines, electrical systems, and electronic control systems. I measured the voltages (with a Fluke 87V), while the connector was attached to the motor, water disconnected, plugged in, and timer turned to 'heavy wash' so the motor would rotate. between leg 1,2,3 to ground I'm getting 160vac-contstant voltage, even if I load up the drum to the point where the motor starts doing it's erratic jerky behaviour like it exhibited during the original problem. The voltage did not drop off, but the motor behaved erratic. The voltages line to line, when measured, were lower-around 60vac, but consistent, even when a high load was put on the motor. I even clamped the drum to make it stop completely and the motor would just stop, spinning slightly on the pulley, every so often doing the erratic behavior.
Do you guys still think it could be a motor problem, even though the controller seemed to be supplying contstant voltage. Would the voltage change if the controller amperage output changed??? Sorry for the misunderstanding, Apparently, I used the wrong service manual and diagram on my previous post. I've alsways suspected a bad control board or speed control board as the culprit, the motor Checks fine , by the information you just supplied. I have attached excerpts from the service manual that I do have, so you can see how the control board fluctuates voltages to the speed control board, based on selection made, and how the speed control board fluctuates voltages to the motor. (these voltages and pins may not match your particular diagram, but I suspect they'll be pretty close). Good Luck,
Disconnect the ten pin
plug from the speed control board.
Measure the resistance between pins
3 & 4 of the ten pin plug.
184 Ohms +/- 7%.
Defective speed
control board.
Readings other than
184 Ohms +/- 7%.
defective motor.
Drive motor tumbles very
slowly when the washer is
in operation.
Note: Always check wiring
to the components.
Note: The control board is the board in the console. The speed control board is the board in the
right rear corner.
Measure the voltage between
pin (6) of the seven pin plug and
neutral. Meter should read:
3 VAC or -163VDC in Max Spin.
35VAC or -30 VDC in Med Spin.
0.2VAC or -12VDC in Low Spin.
Correct readings.
defective speed control board.
Incorrect readings.
Defective control
board.
Note: The control board is the board in the console. The speed control board is the board in the
right rear corner.
Drive motor tumbles
but does not spin.
Display may show
F 04.
Program and start the washer
in the Drain/Spin Cycle.Disconnect
the six & ten pin plugs from the speed
control board. Measure the voltage drop
between pin 6 of the six pin plug
& pins 1, 2 ,6, 9, & 10 of the
ten pin plug If between pin 6 (6 pin plug) to pins
1, 2, 6, 9 &10 (10 pin plug) reads
120 VAC.
Defective speed
control board.
If any other readings besides 120
VAC.
Defective
control board.
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APP team:
I think you guys were wrong about the resistance check of the tacho-generator on the motor. The schematic supplied with the washer says the tolerance is 184 +- 7 % ohms, not 105-130. This is measured on pins 5 and 6 according to the chart given on the schematic. I was getting 194 ohms, which is in tolerance.
Just so you know, I have 30 yrs experience working on engines, electrical systems, and electronic control systems. I measured the voltages (with a Fluke 87V), while the connector was attached to the motor, water disconnected, plugged in, and timer turned to 'heavy wash' so the motor would rotate. between leg 1,2,3 to ground I'm getting 160vac-contstant voltage, even if I load up the drum to the point where the motor starts doing it's erratic jerky behaviour like it exhibited during the original problem. The voltage did not drop off, but the motor behaved erratic. The voltages line to line, when measured, were lower-around 60vac, but consistent, even when a high load was put on the motor. I even clamped the drum to make it stop completely and the motor would just stop, spinning slightly on the pulley, every so often doing the erratic behavior.
Do you guys still think it could be a motor problem, even though the controller seemed to be supplying contstant voltage. Would the voltage change if the controller amperage output changed???
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Originally Posted by: stinkintoad Thanks a lot!! I'll give it a shot when I get to the house tonight.
Mike Mike, OK, Good luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Thanks a lot!! I'll give it a shot when I get to the house tonight.
Mike
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Originally Posted by: stinkintoad Frigidaire washer with intermittent slow speed rotate problem. When this happens, I can help the drum wheel when the motor is hesitating-it's oscillating/jerking, trying to move the drum-when I help it out spinning, it will eventually rotate. This doesn't seem to happen in final spin modes only when it rotates during agitation. Checked ohm readings on motor per schematic-all good-2.9 ohms on each leg. could there be a problem with the tachmometer on the motor feeding back to speed controller? Or is this a speed controller problem. Very frustrating to say the least.
I've seen similar posts saying it's a motor problem-how come the motor works OK most of the time, just in slow mode it acts up, and only seems so after it warms up for a while. Very hot here in Texas also, and unit is located in non a/c garage-does this matter?? Being in Texas, and all the heat that accumulates in a garage, is not the best place to have an integrated(electronic control) washing machine. It should not effect the operation the way you described in your post. I have attached the tachogenerator test from the service manual, so you can test that circuit, so you'll know what you need to order. I am assuming you checked your connections at the boards for being loose, and wires being damaged. Disconnect the plug from the drive motor and measure the resistance between pins 4 & 5 at the motor.If the meter reads other than between 105 & 130
Ohms, replace the motor. If the reading is between 105 & 130 Ohms, replace the speed control board.Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Frigidaire washer with intermittent slow speed rotate problem. When this happens, I can help the drum wheel when the motor is hesitating-it's oscillating/jerking, trying to move the drum-when I help it out spinning, it will eventually rotate. This doesn't seem to happen in final spin modes only when it rotates during agitation. Checked ohm readings on motor per schematic-all good-2.9 ohms on each leg. could there be a problem with the tachmometer on the motor feeding back to speed controller? Or is this a speed controller problem. Very frustrating to say the least.
I've seen similar posts saying it's a motor problem-how come the motor works OK most of the time, just in slow mode it acts up, and only seems so after it warms up for a while. Very hot here in Texas also, and unit is located in non a/c garage-does this matter??
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