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When the dryer is on the ex-low (switch) setting the air should not be real hot with the inside dryer door being real hot correct?
Correct, it should regulate the heat at a low setting.
I notice that the unit has a heat switch.
Does it still heat up on the no heat setting?
Check the white/violet to white/blue to see if it is changing resistance at different heat settings.
Could be that it is blown (open) and then the operating thermostat always runs on high heat.
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That's what I thought about the wiring being incorrect. I set back and looked at the pictures and had a Homer Simpson "DUH" moment. As for the other internal bias thermostat, I did replace it also in the quest for figuring it out. I'm kind of puzzled at what is going on. When the dryer is on the ex-low (switch) setting the air should not be real hot with the inside dryer door being real hot correct? I really appreciate all the help you are giving me!
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I cannot tell which picture is which so am assuming the top picture is the original wiring.
The bottom wiring is incorrect. The way it is wired the hi-limit thermostat is not in circuit.
The red wire that is connected with the red/white wire should go to the top connector of the thermostat.
The wiring is then:
Red wire (power) - thermostat - red/white wire (jumper) - heater element - red wire (power).
Note this should not cause the heater to be constantly on but you have no high limit safety thermostat.
I am not sure if you have replaced the thermostat internal bias (Item 8 in Section 2). This is the one that actually regulates the temperature. Be sure that you mark the wires as this is a 4 wire thermostat. 2 are the actual switch contacts. The other 2 are the built in heater.
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The 1126 picture is the orginal before the new parts.
The 1129 is the new parts with wiring modification. Something just doesn't look right. I have replaced all the sensors except the Accudry sensor. I replaced the temperature selector switch and the element also. I have tried to dry clothing, but it seems like the element goes to full temp when I turned it on for a trial run??:confused: In all ranges of the temperature settings.
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Not sure I understand.
There should be something connected to both the connectors on the right hand side.
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 There would be one terminal connected to the element excluding the thermostat.
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I'll have to dig in and let you know what I find out. I thought that looked funny too. It's the first time the back has been off since I purchased it 4 years ago. I know when I checked it for continuity Sunday, I just removed one wire. Maybe there was one i did not see???
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Something is very very weird.
One side of the element should go to the centrifugal switch on the motor and the other side to the hi-limit thermostat.
You will have to do more investigating.
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I had they back off of the dryer checking the element yesterday. I believe I only saw one wire going to the element. I might be wrong, but one wire was connected with a spade connector towards the rear of the cabinet. I noticed a spade connector towards the front of the cabinet without a wire. Their was not an extra wire dangling around.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEQ9858LW1 29"electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203406661.pdfIf the element stays on all the time then the first thing I would check for is a grounded element re: it has sagged or broken and is touching the case. It then runs but the thermostats cannot regulate it. Unplug the unit. Remove both wires from the heating element Measure the element with a meter, should be approximately 10 ohms. Then measure each side of the element to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms. If not the element is grounded and should be replaced. Often you can see this by inspecting he element. If not grounded I would next check the operating thermostat's internal heater, should be about 5,000 ohms. The thermostat has 4 connectors, 2 are it's contacts and the other 2 are the internal heater. Unplug the unit Disconnect one side of the operating thermostat. Measure the internal heater. If it is infinite ohms the operating thermostat needs replacing.
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