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Just watched your video, my problem is almost exactly the same.
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There was a circuit diagram under the console when I opened it. It gave me me the correct wire colours to jump to enable both hot and cold valves. Your machine should have one or it should be available online. Easy test to do once you know which wires.
A.
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Originally Posted by: apeck  I bypassed my ATC switch ...
Andrew How did you do it? There's like 7 or 8 wires going into mine. Is there an online video that shows how?
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I bypassed my ATC switch and the washer filled and cycled normally. I have set it to fill with warm water on every fill. Both valves open and stay open till the fill setting is reached, no on/off stuttering or any other repetitive noises.
Am going to order the replacement ATC switch and see if that restores temp selectability.
Hope that helps.
Did you already open your console? If so did you find a circuit diagram? Send me a scan of the diagram and I will tell you which wires to jump to bypass your ATC switch.
Andrew
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Hi Andrew, Thanks so much for your reply. Do you have experience working with this kind of stuff? I don't. Regarding:Originally Posted by: apeck HI;
Just posted a similar problem.
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I just read it. At first glance it does not seem to be the same issue I am experiencing due to the fact that your pipes are hammering, and that your washer eventually fills with water. I've not let the clicking / ticking sound coming from the inlet valve continue for more than 30 - 60 seconds. Would it be worth to let it run for a few minutes to see what would happen, or would that risk breaking something? Regarding:Originally Posted by: apeck
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Your overfilling issue suggest the water pressure switch occasional malfunction as it shuts off the valve and triggers the wash cycle.
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It does not overfill any more after replacing the water inlet valve. In fact, only a little bit of water comes out, and only when selecting hot water. No water comes out (practically) when selecting cold water. I tested the water pressure switch for continuity and it passed, and it seems like the circuit opened when I blew on the other end of the hose, and closed back up when I was done. So it seems to be behaving correctly, right? What do you think? Regarding:Originally Posted by: apeck
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If this works will let you know, am trying to find instructions on testing the switch first.
Andrew
A few hours ago I had a neighbor come over who is an electrical / electronics technician. I asked how I could test the water temperature switch and he said it did not seem possible with a simple multi-meter (then started explaining something about the changing of the shape of the waves and completely lost me). Have you found instructions? Thanks, JPG.
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HI;
Just posted a similar problem. I also changed the fill valve with no result. Your overfilling issue suggest the water pressure switch occasional malfunction as it shuts off the valve and triggers the wash cycle. My washer has not overflowed and the switch seems to be working. Maybe the diaphragm could 'flutter' and cause power to go on and off rapidly? Not sure and it is a $100 part to buy just to see if that is the issue.
I am looking at the ATC switch ($50) and may replace it. If this works will let you know, am trying to find instructions on testing the switch first.
Andrew
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Hello, I hope that one of you experts can help me diagnose this issue. I am a newbie. I took the time to record and edit a video that describes the problem fairly well, using captions. It is only 1:15 in duration. You can view it on YouTube, by clicking on this link: YouTube video describing problem - click hereCurrent Symptoms:[LIST=1] When temperature selector is set to HOT, only a little spurt of water comes in, and I hear a clicking noise coming from water inlet valve. It sounds like an old reel-to-reel movie projector.
When temperature selector is set to COLD, no water comes in (or very little if there was some already in the compartment), and I do not hear a noise coming from water inlet valve.
[/LIST]
Specifications:
- Whirlpool Model = WTW5590VQ1.
- Part number of new water inlet installed = W10144820.
Background Info:
- A single valve shuts off supply to both hot and cold water hoses; this can be seen in the video.
- Water pressure from the supply and through the hoses is excellent.
- I bought and installed a new water inlet valve after a second incident of water overflowing the tub and leaking on the floor. Water would drip into the basket even when it was turned off, and would almost fill up the tub overnight. The first time this happened, I bought myself some time by ensuring / requesting that the valve to supply was in the off position when it was not being used.
- After installing the new water inlet valve, the situation improved as follows: I could leave the water supply in the ON position, and water did not leak / drip into the basket overnight.
- I did not try to let the washer continue on to the next phase of the cycle.
Questions:
[LIST=1]
How can I test whether or not the new water inlet valve is defective, at least from an electrical perspective? All videos and instructions I have found online are for valves for which it appears to be easy to apply multi-meter test leads, that look similar to this:
However, I cannot figure out how to do it with mine, which looks like this (see attached image please)
[COLOR="Red"]Can you please provide other troubleshooting steps?[/COLOR] I do not want to spend more money as things are tight financially.
[/LIST]
Thank you so much for any and every tip. Much appreciated!
Best,
JPG.
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