Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
brobriffin Posted: Wednesday, July 13, 2016 6:30:04 AM(UTC)
 
You can check the start capacitor. It should have a reading of 45 MFD. It has a +/- 5% so if you get between 43 to 47 MFD it is good. MFD = Microfarads. Also shown as µf or µF.
Gjohnlue Posted: Friday, July 8, 2016 7:29:25 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: brobriffin Go to Quoted Post
Your first code is F1 E2 a motor control fault. The second is F2 E1 a stuck key error, one of the buttons on the user interface has been pressed for more than 15 seconds.


Thank you for your reply. That's exactly what I got myself, but I could not tell if I was reading it incorrectly. Those error codes just seems totally off so I thought I was reading something incorrectly. Except for the motor control one...

Odd part about the button, nothing is EVER touched and I took the top apart today to make sure nothing was stuck in there to hold the button down. So that one is a ??? for me.

Now, I was looking at it more tonight. Last night I let it sit unplugged. Came back today and give it a test run through the diagnostics. It passed all the way through. Put a load of wash in, and 1/2 way through it craped out again.

No, when ever I try to start a new load, once the lock light clicks on, you can hear the motor try to spin, and it sounds like it doesn't have enough juice to spin. So then I'm narrowing it down to one of two thing if it is in tie area. The Capacitor, or the motor itself. I'm leaning towards the capacitor because isn't the purpose of it to mainly help start up the motor when it needs a little extra torque when handling a large load, and that seems to be the issue right now. The two times I got the machine to work when I first went down tonight after it being unplugged for a day I did get it to go through a spin cycle and a diagnostics run through. But now, the second the motor has to spin, it tries for a millisecond and then the Lid Lock Light Starts blinking and it won't' do anything else. When it did do that one spin cycle at the beginning, the motor sounded like normal. No extra clicks or whirls.

Does anyone have an opinion?

Thanks, Tom!
brobriffin Posted: Friday, July 8, 2016 7:10:08 PM(UTC)
 
Your first code is F1 E2 a motor control fault. The second is F2 E1 a stuck key error, one of the buttons on the user interface has been pressed for more than 15 seconds.
Gjohnlue Posted: Friday, July 8, 2016 3:58:06 PM(UTC)
 
I'm having a hard time understanding how to read the error codes my Maytag Washing machine is giving me. It's a Centennial Series.

Once I get into diagnostics mode and the DONE light lit, I press the start button to start getting the codes. Once I hit start, I get ALL lights except Lock Lid blinking over and over and over again.

I turn the knob once I get:

#1 - SENSING + DONE (Pause) SPIN

I turn the knob once more:

#2 - SENSING + SPIN (Pause) DONE

I turn the knob again and it's just SENSING which tells me that's all the error codes in the system.

I'm not sure how to read these codes of if I'm doing it correctly.

Can Anyone help me with these codes?

I really appreciate it!

Thanks, Tom