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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Guest Posted: Sunday, June 11, 2023 5:26:37 AM(UTC)
 
The advice to use a socket to firmly seat the coupling halves is absolutely splendid! My replacement part had the metal inserts and I experienced the burning smell when I first reassembled the machine but thanks to this post I did it properly and am grateful for the information.
dhwhmw Posted: Wednesday, July 15, 2015 8:30:51 AM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: anarolf Go to Quoted Post
What I think could be happening is the coupler halves have not been fully seated on the gearbox shaft, the motor shaft, or both. you should use a socket and hammer to firmly seat the plastic coupling on each shaft. If the coupling is not properly seated, the washer will work, you will get rotation, but there will be constant back pressure on the motor shaft, pushing it against the rear bearing race and the pump at the rear, the added friction causes heat buildup in the motor, nasty burning smell, and sometimes overtemp switch operation. Just solved this tricky problem myself. another clue that the coupler isn't fully flush and seated is the last motor retention strap is very difficult to get on, due to the 1/8-1/4 inch extra length.

This describes my symptoms perfectly after replacing couplers that had new reinforcing metal inserts that only installed half way onto both the motor and gearbox shafts. I was afraid to use a hammer and socket to install them further
but after having to apply heavy force to install the 2nd motor clip this analysis convinced me otherwise and solves my problem perfectly. Yes, tricky problem and can't thank you enough for your help here.
anarolf Posted: Monday, April 12, 2010 4:28:16 PM(UTC)
 
What I think could be happening is the coupler halves have not been fully seated on the gearbox shaft, the motor shaft, or both. you should use a socket and hammer to firmly seat the plastic coupling on each shaft. If the coupling is not properly seated, the washer will work, you will get rotation, but there will be constant back pressure on the motor shaft, pushing it against the rear bearing race and the pump at the rear, the added friction causes heat buildup in the motor, nasty burning smell, and sometimes overtemp switch operation. Just solved this tricky problem myself. another clue that the coupler isn't fully flush and seated is the last motor retention strap is very difficult to get on, due to the 1/8-1/4 inch extra length.
richappy Posted: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 3:22:33 AM(UTC)
 
You might have an overheating motor due to a jam somwhere, or a piece of rubber coupling got into the motor. I would safety check it with an amprobe, current draw should be less than 10 amps as measured at the power cord black or white wires behind the control panel.
sturg3636 Posted: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 1:26:51 PM(UTC)
 
I replaced the motor coupling today & started a load. During agitation a burning smell started and got stronger. I unplugged the washer and am unsure what is wrong now! Is this normal?