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I don't know why they call it a brake spring, it's the cam bar hold down spring and keeps the rear end of the cam bars from lifting up. If it's broken, yes it can prevent the cam bar guide from functioning properly. Also, make sure the pin in the guide is not broken or missing. It goes through the holes in the guide and through the slot in the cam bar and is what pushes/pulls the cam bar. If the pin is ok and the solenoid is pulling the plunger with guide upwards, you should be able to hold the back of the cam bar down to allow the guide to engage. By holding it down, your taking the place of the broken hold down spring.
Eric
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I responded to you a few days ago but didn’t see my reply in the forum like the replies from other members. I contacted the Customer Service for help. I replied to you using the Quick Reply button located in your post. Customer Service said I should have used the green Post Reply button located above my post and they don’t know where the Quick Reply goes. I’ll try again.
After reading your post, I observed the machine while it ran. The assembly with the two solenoids does rock back and forth as you said it should. If I correctly understand the electric wire diagram, the two solenoids are spin solenoid and agitate solenoid. While the assembly is rocking, it seems as though the spin solenoid is trying to pull up on the Cam Bar Guide. There is a clicking sound while the assembly is rocking. If I lift the lid to disengage the spin, the clicking stops and begins again when I put the lid back down. But the Cam Bar doesn’t seem to be in the correct position for the Cam Bar Guide to pull up and engage the Cam Bar. Thus the Cam Bar is not pulled back to allow the clutch shaft to lower. While checking things out, I noticed that one end of the Brake Spring, part number 94726, is broken off. The end that is broken off is the end that rides on top of the spin Cam Bar. Could replacing the Brake Spring resolve the spin problem?
[FONT="]In answer to your question about the basket, I am not able to manually spin the basket.[/FONT]
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The assembly with the two solenoids should be rocking back and forth. When the spin solenoid engages and pulls up, it should pull the clutch cam bar back, allowing the clutch shaft to lower which allows the spring to pull the yoke down. This releases the brake and engages the clutch. If this is all happening and the basket doesn't spin, at this point, can you manually spin the basket? If so, I'd say the basket drive is bad. The basket drive is still available from various vendors including from Sears, as part number 285897.
Eric
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[FONT=Calibri","sans-serif]Washer started making a loud clanging sound at the beginning of the spin cycle. It did this for a few weeks but the spin was sufficient to properly remove the water from the clothes. Now it won't spin at all. Inspected Drive Block and Brake and Drive Tube and there is no wear or damage. I tried to turn the Brake and Drive Tube by hand but there was a firm resistance to turning. My model is a belt drive and all the repair help videos are for direct drive so I need advice on how to proceed underneath the tub. The lid switch has continuity. What I believe are two solenoids (round, black, about 1.5 inches long), that sit over the two Cam Bars, have readings of 553 and 545 on the lowest Ohm setting. When the spin cycle tries to engage, the Cam Bar Guide lifts up while making a buzzing sound. Without dismantling anything, I was able to reach in and turn the plastic Bearing, which is directly under the Basket Drive. It turned freely. I would appreciate any guidance on repairing the spin function. I hope the Basket Drive doesn’t need to be replaced because the Sears and other parts supply websites list it as no longer available.[/FONT]
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