Originally Posted by: rladamsIII 
I replaced the wax motor and the control board. Ran the machine first with no clothes and then with a few clothes. No change.
What would be the next step?
This has become a challenge to me. I want to fix this washer.
I may have an extra control board and wax motor, if someone needs one.
RL,
Great, it's a challenge to work on this washer, that's why most people don't like them.
It's a "********** cat" once you get some experience, and don't get confused.
At this point, we're going to be doing DC and AC voltage checks at the main control board, while the washer is running,
You're going to use the Black #1 wire on the Line relay(black box) on the control board as the common lead forr the DC voltage checks, so be careful, we'll get a more accurate reading, but it does have 120 VAC on it.
Make sure you get the point of your meter lead into/ onto the pin in the connector and or foil strip on the board.
I'll be giving you connector number, pin location(from left to right) and wire color.
So, with the washer in a spin cycle, started and running, check the following,
Black to conn. P3 pin 1 red, you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. P3 pin 7 yell. you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. P2 pin 4 orng. you should read 24 VDC.
P3 pin 1 is 24 vdc out to the components(no DC volts, bad control board)
P3 pin7 is 24 VDC back from the spin enable switch(when the door is locked).
P2 pin 4 is VDC back from the tub off balance switches(any one switch will break the circuit).
Black to conn. P2 pin 3 yell. you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. p2 pin 1 purp. you should read 24 VDC.
These are return VDC from the option switch,
Yellow is the max extract selection and purple is the end of cycle buzzer.
Black to conn. P4 pin 3 blu. you should read 24 VDC.
Black to conn. P4 pin 1 yell. you should read 24 VDC.
(the VDC should fluctuate and increase to 24 VDC) as the motor RPM 's incease.
Blue is the power out to the motor control board, and Yellow is the power back to the control board. The red wire is the tach circuit back to the control, you'll have irratic readings until the motor rpm is consistant, then you will read a simillar DCV, as the Yellow wire.
There's only a couple of VAC checks we need to run at this point.
You'll use the P5 conn White wire as your common lead,
So,
From P5 White to Gray wire on the line relay, you should read 120 VAC.
From P5 white to P1 pin 1 purple,you should read 120 VAC.
At the Water level switch(pressure switch),
P5 white to blu #32 wire, you should read 120 VAC
P5 white to Gray wire# 33, you should read 120 VAC.
The gray wire, is power into the control board from the door switch, and you should have VAC whenever the door is closed(does not have to be locked).
The P1 pin 1 purple wire at the control board, is the water level switch return path, no voltage would indicate a bad water level(pressure switch) and the washer won't spin, if it thinks theres water in tub.
No VAC on the gray or blue wire at the switch would indicate a bad timer.
All these checks, are most of the circuits involved in the washer spin cycle.
Let us know what you find , we'll move on from there, if needed.
:cool: :cool: :cool:
