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I rarely see that safety open, but since water valve power goes through the mold heater I think it makes sense if it was trying to make ice without water. They'll cycle when thermostat is 15 deg so dry they may cycle frequently as the thermostat in the IM module is satisfied far more frequently.
Glad to be of help. It's very easy to overlook the simple things,
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Well that was a pretty silly thing to overlook I suppose. Nowhere did I see that you had to close that switch, but it makes sense that it wouldn't just be for the light in there.
I did my tests again this morning with the switch closed and all looks well. It ran a cycle, filled with water and I'm sure it would have kicked the ice out after it was frozen. I didn't want to leave it in there because I have the blown thermal fuse bypassed. Now to wait on the harness to arrive so I can finally finish this up.
Thanks for the reply, it was super helpful.
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Did you have the freezer door switch taped closed? It interrupts power to the IM. It's a simple thing to overlook and I've done it.
When you connect T to H nothing happens? This is the old style more reliable IM. If it is getting power and you jump the thermostat it should start a cycle and you'd see the gear rotate. I'd skip testing voltage in the IM module and do it at the connector as getting probes onto contacts in those holes isn't always reliable, if no voltage at the harness with the door switch closed then the fun begins.
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I have a Whirlpool gx5shdxvb01 that I've been trying to fix the icemaker in.
I first replaced the actual icemaker but that did not work.
I then replaced the fill control valve. I know it was bad because it was 1.5 ohms across the contacts and it would not open when I put 110 volts to it. New unit measured 150 ohms I believe. This did not help, didn't really expect it to, but was hopeful.
I then started looking into a deeper diagnostic of the ice maker and started probing voltages. I was getting 0 at contacts L and N so I pulled out the harness and it appeared that the thermal fuse was blown. I bypassed the fuse because I am tired of throwing parts at this thing and I now get 5V at terminals L an N. When I short T and H to force a cycle, the voltage on L and N drops to almost 0 but nothing else happens.
I'm at a loss here. I don't want to drop $200+ on a control board for this thing unless absolutely necessary. Any advice or additional tests I might be able to run to figure out what is going on?
Also, some history that may help turn on a light bulb. This fridge became a garage fridge about 4 years ago. I'm sure it spent much of that time with the icemaker arm down and set to make ice. Not sure if that really would matter much. It has also been moved from house to house twice. Everything else works great aside from the lack of ice.
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