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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
richappy Posted: Friday, June 17, 2011 1:19:44 AM(UTC)
 
Your refrigeration system has maxed out at 44 degrees, can't go lower and you are wasting about $100 a month.
Best way to detect leak is with flourescent die injected into the system.
stevedal Posted: Thursday, June 16, 2011 6:48:18 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
If your condensing fan motor fails to run, replace it and put a portable fan in the back to cool the compressor and condensing coils.



Why would the display be showing a 10 deg difference than actual temp? Shoudn't it read the correct temp?
richappy Posted: Thursday, June 16, 2011 1:25:36 PM(UTC)
 
If your condensing fan motor fails to run, replace it and put a portable fan in the back to cool the compressor and condensing coils.
stevedal Posted: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 7:52:36 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
Your fridg is probably running a lot. I would suspect a refrigerant leak/bad compressor. A low side gauge pressure check and amprobe would confirm this.
It still could be an intermittent problem. Next time it fails, verify everything is running including the compressor.



This thing is driving me crazy. The fridge has been stuck at 44 deg all week. The compressor has been hot to the touch and the fan has always been running when I checked it. Tonight, the comrpessor was hot and the fan wasn't running. One thing I forgot to post is that the repair tech said that because there was ice on the FF evap lines and not the core that's why he said it had a leak. Any more suggestions? Shoud the compressor be hot? I used a Bacharach refridgerant detector over the entire FF evap core and it didn't detect the slightest bit of leak.
richappy Posted: Monday, June 13, 2011 5:29:09 AM(UTC)
 
Your fridg is probably running a lot. I would suspect a refrigerant leak/bad compressor. A low side gauge pressure check and amprobe would confirm this.
It still could be an intermittent problem. Next time it fails, verify everything is running including the compressor.
stevedal Posted: Monday, June 13, 2011 2:28:14 AM(UTC)
 
Came down this morning. Actual fridge temp was 44 and display said 33. Condenser fan motor was running and I've vacuumed out the condenser already. Seems like there's pretty decent air flow.
richappy Posted: Monday, June 13, 2011 1:40:42 AM(UTC)
 
I would check the compressor in the back to see if it very hot, might have intermittent condensing fan motor, or clogged condenser coils.
stevedal Posted: Sunday, June 12, 2011 4:46:16 PM(UTC)
 
I have an on going problem with my GE Profile Artica side by side. Model PSW23PSRASS Serial LG415006 Purchased in 2004. The display shows 0 freezer temp and 37 fridge temp. We noticed about 8 months ago that the food in the fridge was going bad sooner than expected. We put multiple thermometers in the fridge and freezer and found out the freezer is usualy within 5 deg. of what the display reads. We are really having no problems on the freezer side. However, the fridge side can be anywhere between 40 and 50 degrees according to the thermometers yet the display on the fridge reads 37 deg. About 6 months ago we had a repair man come out. He basicaly argued with my wife that our thermometers that we put in to check the actual temps were wrong. He said that the control board was faulty and intermittently shutting off the fridge. After he replaced the main board it seemed slightly better, temp in fridge stayed closer to 40 than 50. We are now again having problems with the fridge getting closer to 50 and acting erratic. I had another repairman come out and he is now saying that there is a refridgerant leak in the sealed system. I find that hard to beleive because at times the temp in the fridge can get down to 35 deg. according to the thermometer. If it was low on refridgerant wouldn't it always be warm? I've replcaed the fresh food and evap. thermistors, vacuumed off the condensor, checked for light coming through the dampner in the lower part of the freezer, ff evap fan runs and there are no fault codes in the control panel. Second repair man is telling me to buy a new fridge because this is one of the worst fridges made by GE. Does anyone have any direction to point me in or thoughts about this so I don't have to scrap a fridge that's only 7 years old and cost me $3000?