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I found them in the back but could you advise me on how to disconnect? Would also like to know where I would aim a blow dryer to thaw the line. I have a kitchen aid KSRJ25CNBT00. The old icemaker seemed to have shorted out so bought that but no water coming into it.
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Make sure the freezer is not too cold, line will freez up again if super cold, below zero, or thje water valve is putting out low pressure water.
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yup, it was just a frozen line. Back to normal now and making ice like a champ. Thanks!
This forum and the help with getting parts is awesome!
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OK, so I found the video links that go with the replacement parts diagram and went to the one for the water inlet valve. From that I figured out I have the newer push-to-lock hose connectors instead of the screw on compression fittings I was familair with.
So I detached the icemaker water line from the valve assembly and I cannot blow air through it.
Figuring that means the water line is blocked or most likely frozen, I used a heat gun to thaw the exit nozzle. Took a while but I was able to clear the line.
Got everything back together and now I am waiting for it all to cool back down to see if it starts making ice again. If this doesn't work I'll post back again.
Thanks!
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OK, so I tried swapping the connectors but they are different sizes and the door water (purple) would not fit on the larger bladed grey connector for the icemaker water. To get around that I jumpered the connection.
With the above jumpers, turning on the door water switch energized the icemaker valve but no water flowed into the ice tray. Either a clog or bad valve?
This unit is not a user friendly for service. The hose fittings are something I have never seen, not typical compression fittings. Not sure how to disconnect.
What should I try next?
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That is correct, but when you close the door switch and the flapper, the light must go out (infared mode,invisible).
But if it works, but no voltage to the icemaker, you have a bad wire someplace, rather common.
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OK, thanks I'll try that.
I thought the red blinking status light as I reported it means the optics are good. That was repeating two blinks, off, two blinks, off, etc when flapper open. Steady red when the flapper is closed.
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Go in the back and swap the water valve electrical connectors. Dispense water for 9 seconds, icemaker should fill up with water, if not, you either have a frozen line or bad water valve.
If it fills with water, close the door light switch and the flapper. If you get no voltage to the white and black wires to the icemaker, you either have bad optics, or a bad wire in the fridg.(which is common).
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One more thing, the water supply and water filter or OK, and the water on the door works just fine.
If it is the solenoid valve how do I check it on this model?
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I have been through the many threads on icemaker issues but there is too much info not related to my model, so at the risk of asking the same question already answered somewhere else I have no choice but to start a fresh thread.
The ice maker has stopped making ice. The ice maker switch is set to ON. There is no ice at all in the ice maker, and the last of the cubes came out OK, so the last ice it made cycled out OK.
The red diagnostic light on the right-hand side flashes on-off twice when I open the freezer door. When I close the flap the light goes to solid red.
I can't see any ice blocking the fill tube, it appears clear as near as I can tell without removing anything.
The refrigerator and freezer sections appear to be operating normally.
What do I do next? Where are the various test points I see referred to in the other posts located on this model? I found the page with the exploded parts diagrams, but can't see anything useful about what to do from that.
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