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RTV sealant is available at Wall Mart. It is a silicone based sealant.
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Hello,
Based on various feedback and the help of a service manual, I believe I've now confirmed the problem to be the evaporator thermistor.
Pin #2 had been cut when the new board was installed and there wasn't any capacitor to cut on my model.
I first confirmed that the thermostat and defrost heater's resistance were fine.
Then the different thermistors were read using the wires plugging into J1 of the motherboard. The freezer and fresh food thermistor read expected values, but the evaporator thermistor only reads about 500 ohms.
Since this is a rather simple fix, I'm considering doing it myself.
The service manual states to "..splice the new thermistor using bell connectors as shown. Always use RTV102 silicone sealant to seal the end of the connector from moisture."
Are bell connectors crimp type connectors? What would be the risk of using a twist-on connector instead?
Where can I get this particular kind of sealant? Is its purpose to avoid any humidity of getting into the newly spliced connection?
Thanks!
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I would go to the first sticky " GE refrigerator " and search for the manual defrost test. This test will isolate the problem.
However, if the results point to a bad motherboard, I would fist check/replace the evaporator thermistor, a thin, white plastic part clipped to the evaporator top.
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If you have a multimeter check the heater by disconnecting the leads and check ohms (it should be less than 40 for this model) Rarely do these go out so check your thermostat while unit is cold (still frozen) and it should be closed, if not change that.
I do believe that many newer GE control boards have to be modified (wire cut on board and on capacitor in back) for them to work properly on certain bottom freezer units. White wire pin #2 on J1 connection check to see if there is one there.
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Hello,
I have a PDS22MBRAWW GE Profile (bottom freezer) fridge that is apparently having repetitive defrost problems. This is a 7 years old fridge.
Last January, the freezer started getting too cold and the fridge too warm. Opening up the freezer compartment revealed a frozen evaporator. Manually defrosting (using a blower on the evaporator) allowed the fridge to cool normally a couple of days until the tech came in.
A bad board was diagnosed and the main board was changed for a new replacement model (WR55X10942).
The fridge then worked fine for a couple of months until early May. The evaporator was frozen again. Repeated manual defrosts allowed the fridge to run normally between 1 to 2 weeks before another defrost was required.
The tech came back early June and changed the main board again (on warranty) as both the defrost heater and I guess thermodisc were diagnosed to be still fine.
Two weeks after running with this 2nd new board, the evaporator was frozen again.
So I figure either the problem is something else than the board, that some other bad piece has the board burn up, or that the 2nd new board was broken from the start.
How can I diagnose the thermodisc and defrost heater myself?
Is there any other piece on this model that should be looked at?
A thermistor is part of the evaporator assembly. What is its role and how can I diagnose it?
Is there a way to know when the fridge should be defrosting in order to check if the element gets warm then?
Do you have any other idea about how to diagnose the problem and fix the fridge for good?
Thanks!
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