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Originally Posted by: Andromb  Additionally, One of the tabs on the motor end of the ejector is snapped off, so the cam can go on one way, or 180 degrees the other way. My trial/error approach to synchronization resulted with water overflowing everywhere. Please guide me. Thanks That should not have happened, Unless, The ejector arm was jammed or stuck, You accidentally dislodged or turned the water level adjustment screw. You have a bad water fill contact inside the control module. The ideal situation is at the fill cycle the valve should be active for 7 to 8 seconds, and the water amount should be 130 to 140 cc's (1/2 to 3/4 cup)of water in the mold. Even if you had the ejector out of alignment, it still should have filled properly, the ejector would have been in the 6 o'clock position instesd of the 12:30 to 1:00 o'clock. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Joe - upon closer inspection the whole center of the white drive wheel on the motor module is snapped off (not just the tab). That's probably why it won't synchronize properly. I'll just order the whole unit.
I also have the same 36 volt reading problem as above, jumped the emitter plug and then got line voltage to the IM unit. Ordering that part too.
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Originally Posted by: Andromb Guys - this discussion was excellent! I have the same emitter board problem. I, like Dan, took the IM apart and now need to properly synchronize the ejector. So, with the ejector in the 2:00 home position (viewing from the motor end, L and T terminals on the bottom, right?), where should the cam notch be located.
Thanks
Will Will, I may not understand your question, ( cam notch ?) But, Your ejector blade has a "D" shaded end on one end, and a round shaped end at the other end, In the module control head, your ejector cam has a "D" shaped drive coupling, of course, you don't force the blade into the coupling, whereever your ejector blade lines up, so does your drive coupler cam. If your ejector blade is somewhere other than the 2 o'clock position, your icemaker did not complete a harvest cycle, and you'll need to jump "T" to"H"on the control module(with an insulated jumper wire), and let it finish advancing to the home/2 o'clock position. I hope this helped, but if you're discussing something else, let us know. :) :) :)
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Additionally, One of the tabs on the motor end of the ejector is snapped off, so the cam can go on one way, or 180 degrees the other way. My trial/error approach to synchronization resulted with water overflowing everywhere. Please guide me. Thanks
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Guys - this discussion was excellent! I have the same emitter board problem. I, like Dan, took the IM apart and now need to properly synchronize the ejector. So, with the ejector in the 2:00 home position (viewing from the motor end, L and T terminals on the bottom, right?), where should the cam notch be located.
Thanks
Will
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Originally Posted by: Dan54 Hi Joe,
This is what I've done so far.
1. cleared the fill tube to the ice maker, the flexible part.
2. checked the resistance between the L and H test openings, reading started higher than 75 ohms (~115) then went down below 75 ohms as the IM warmed up
3. What reading should I be looking for when I check for continuity between the T and H openings? I'm assuming that the resistance goes to infinity if the circuit is open so the reading should be a really large number? Sorry, not too sure how to use the multimeter.
4. The optics were working alright when I did the test.
5. I jumped the harness to the PC board and got 119.5 VAC at the L to N test openings on the control module. I'm thinking that the board is the problem as the IM started working when I bypassed the module and had it plugged in to test for voltage.
What is the part number for the pc board kit? Is it AP3137510?
Thanks!
Dan Dan, You're correct on all the checks you made, and the readings you got, Great job. Part number: AP3137510
You also have the correct part number for the board kit. You should be up and running soon, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Great,
OK, We'll keep an eye for your post,
:) :) :) Hi Joe, This is what I've done so far. 1. cleared the fill tube to the ice maker, the flexible part. 2. checked the resistance between the L and H test openings, reading started higher than 75 ohms (~115) then went down below 75 ohms as the IM warmed up 3. What reading should I be looking for when I check for continuity between the T and H openings? I'm assuming that the resistance goes to infinity if the circuit is open so the reading should be a really large number? Sorry, not too sure how to use the multimeter. 4. The optics were working alright when I did the test. 5. I jumped the harness to the PC board and got 119.5 VAC at the L to N test openings on the control module. I'm thinking that the board is the problem as the IM started working when I bypassed the module and had it plugged in to test for voltage. What is the part number for the pc board kit? Is it AP3137510? Thanks! Dan
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Originally Posted by: Dan54 Hi Joe,
Thanks for the quick reply to my problem and for the recommendations. I will check these out and post back soon (at least by this weekend).
Dan Great, OK, We'll keep an eye for your post, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Dan,
Sounds like you have several possible problems,
But nothing you can't solve or overcome.
The frozen fill tube to the icemaker,
As long as there were no abnormal conditions, and the ice maker is not malfunctioning, a frozen fill tube is usually due to a seeping fill valve.
Hopefully, there's no damage to the ice maker, If you took your time and put it back together, there's probably nothing wrong with it.
It sounds like you have a multi meter, so,
You may want to test the ice maker mold heater resistance.
Check for 50 to 75 ohms from L to H in the test openings on the control module, to test the mold heater.
You'll need to cool the ice maker down,(put it back in the freezer for a few hours) and check from T to H openings on the module, that should be a closed circuit below 17 dgrs F. and an open circuit above 32 dgrs F.
You also seem to have a problem in the infra red system,
The blinking pattern and 34 VAC to the ice maker.
Open the freezer door, observe the the status light
2 pulses followed by a 1 second delay (repeated)
a) indicates the flapper is stuck and blocking the I/R beam.
b) faulty optics
wait at least 1 minute with the door closed
Open the freezer door, press and hold down on the flapper, observe the status light
2 pulses follwed by a 1 second delay (repeated)
a) indicates the optics are faulty
b) LED on solid, indicates that the optics are working correctly.
You can't get an accurate voltage reading from the optic board to the ice maker wire harness, the room light interferes with the I/R beam, but I have never had that low a voltage reading.
A lot of technicians remove the reciever board assembly(on the right side wall) disconnect the wire harness from the board and use a small wire jumper(paper clip) and insert the jumper on pin 3(black) and pin 4 (black / white stripe) that bypasses the reciever board and you should read 120 VAC from blach to white on the harness or L to N on the test openings on the ice maker control module.
If you get the proper voltage at L to N on the control module, you can be 98% sure, you've giot a bad, or intermittent circuit on the I/R system and will need the board kit.
Good Luck,
:) :) :) Hi Joe, Thanks for the quick reply to my problem and for the recommendations. I will check these out and post back soon (at least by this weekend). Dan
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Originally Posted by: Dan54 Hi All,
Been reading most of the threads that had replies which matched the description of the problem I'm having. About two weeks ago the icemaker just stopped making ice. I noticed that the water at the inlet which feeds the IM was frozen.
I removed the IM from the freezer and removed the ice, I also took the IM apart (maybe not a good idea but already done) and put it back together. I replaced the IM into the freezer and heard the icemaker fill with water also verified that it was filled. After checking on the IM from time to time I noticed that the ice ejector was not moving.
I removed the IM again and tested for voltage at both the "N" and "L" test ports and at the harness, black and white, black and green. At both places I got 34 volts.
With the freezer door open and the IM "on", the led blinks twice then pauses then repeats the sequence, when I hold down the small flap it glows steady, when I depress the freezer compartment light switch it goes out. The led blinks twice then pauses and repeats the sequence even when the IM is "off".
I currently have the IM out of the freezer. Any recommendations would be appreciated?
Thanks,
Dan Dan, Sounds like you have several possible problems, But nothing you can't solve or overcome. The frozen fill tube to the icemaker, As long as there were no abnormal conditions, and the ice maker is not malfunctioning, a frozen fill tube is usually due to a seeping fill valve. Hopefully, there's no damage to the ice maker, If you took your time and put it back together, there's probably nothing wrong with it. It sounds like you have a multi meter, so, You may want to test the ice maker mold heater resistance. Check for 50 to 75 ohms from L to H in the test openings on the control module, to test the mold heater. You'll need to cool the ice maker down,(put it back in the freezer for a few hours) and check from T to H openings on the module, that should be a closed circuit below 17 dgrs F. and an open circuit above 32 dgrs F. You also seem to have a problem in the infra red system, The blinking pattern and 34 VAC to the ice maker. Open the freezer door, observe the the status light 2 pulses followed by a 1 second delay (repeated) a) indicates the flapper is stuck and blocking the I/R beam. b) faulty optics wait at least 1 minute with the door closed Open the freezer door, press and hold down on the flapper, observe the status light 2 pulses follwed by a 1 second delay (repeated) a) indicates the optics are faulty b) LED on solid, indicates that the optics are working correctly. You can't get an accurate voltage reading from the optic board to the ice maker wire harness, the room light interferes with the I/R beam, but I have never had that low a voltage reading. A lot of technicians remove the reciever board assembly(on the right side wall) disconnect the wire harness from the board and use a small wire jumper(paper clip) and insert the jumper on pin 3(black) and pin 4 (black / white stripe) that bypasses the reciever board and you should read 120 VAC from blach to white on the harness or L to N on the test openings on the ice maker control module. If you get the proper voltage at L to N on the control module, you can be 98% sure, you've giot a bad, or intermittent circuit on the I/R system and will need the board kit. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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