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I have a GE model GDS20SBSBSS, constant clicking from the main board. compressor doesn't turn on, fan doesn't turn on. is the same problem with the main board? Refrigerator was purchased in 2005. Would the replacement board be still covered by the policy? is it possible that the compressor has been damaged too?
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Hi All,
I also have a GE Profile Fridge, 2007 model...dont have the model # with me. I starting hearing the clicking noise a few days back then fridge eventually stopped cooling. I changed the main board yesterday...$200..and 24 hours later the fridge is still clicking and not cooling.
Just beaware, everyone is sating its the main board but in my case it wasn't
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Same problem here on a GE GDS20KBSAWW here is a picture of capacitors What capacitor should i use to replace them ?? Thanks! 
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Well, I replaced the same 470uF capacitors that apmp945 did (mine had a slight visible bulge). I pulled one of the 47uF caps, but it tested out ok, so I didn't replace those.
The result? Meh. No clicking (in the initial 15 minutes I was there, at least), but no fan, either.
The supply voltage at the J2-8 pin is now up in the good 13.7 V range, but the fan still isn't turning. I measured the J2-4 circuit (evaporator fan)at 12.2 V and the J2-5 circuit (condenser fan) at less than 3 V.
In the absence of an obviously bad component, it will no-doubt be easier to replace the board, but I'll poke at it over the weekend to see if I can figure it out (or free the magic smoke).
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The temp readouts on my PDS22SFSBRSS were flickering for a while (not sure how long, since I had been away until a week ago), and then the clicking started (and the temp displays went from rapid dim-full flickering to on-off flickering in time with the clicks). I isolated the clicks to control board, searched the internet, and found this thread.
I was able to get a replacement board quickly, but it wasn't a new one (newest model number, just not a new board). I plugged it in, and... click...click...click.
Great, the replacement's bad, too.
The old board doesn't have any obviously bad solder joints or burned out components, so I plugged it back in. One click, and the condenser kicked in. Loose or corroded connect, maybe? It didn't look like it. At some point overnight, the clicking started again. So much for the miracle fix.
I got a little more methodical at this point. I didn't want to get yet another control board if it was actually some other component causing the problem indirectly. I started checking voltages, and found that the J2-3,8 voltage was 11.7 V. Pulling off the access panel, I could see that the condenser fan was not turning on with the condenser. I swapped in the newer board, and the clicking returned. However, with each click the fan turned a fraction and the voltage on the J2-3,8 circuit was 13.something V.
I wasn't sure about the timing of my different efforts, but started to wonder. Could the old board's only failure is be the fan voltage? If the condenser overheats, would the overload shut it down, causing the click/fail cycle until the condenser's temp falls again? I pointed a fan at the coils (panel still off) after the clicks started again early this morning, and after a while the condenser started. Not sure if it's related though. To check some more, I swapped in the newer board (leaving the fan running throughout the process) to see if it would work with known-to-be-cooled parts. No such luck. Click...click...click.
At this point, I'm looking at either two bad boards (with the old one being right at the edge of the click-of-death) or an off-board issue that affects the two board's differently (different tolerances to line levels?), or one of each...
Before I get another (new) control board, I may try to swap out the capacitors on the original board when I get home tonight. Which caps are associated with the relay circuit, and which (if any) are associated with the condenser fan circuit? The two resistors look ok (haven't taken a meter to them, though...). Any other components to consider?
Thanks,
--Mike
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Hi apmp945 Fantastic report. I was motivated to fix similar problem on GE wr 55X 10416. Fridge is functioning now; no clicking, BUT the condenser fan is slower and evaporator motor breakdown that damaged the PCB is temporary replaced with a computer 12V fan. Hope GE management will REPLACE the MOTHERBOARD and FAN FREE. I replaced my GE of 20 yrs with this energy saver. LOL Thanks.
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Originally Posted by: rlagm3  thanks Gene. I orderd a new starter relay. Once it comes in Ill install and let you know what happens. Thanks for your advice. Ill keep you posted. The starter relay part worked!!! but now when i just opened the fridge, there was no power and when i pulled on the french doors to pull the fridge away from the wall its agianst, the lights came on.. I just replaced the board last week so its almost like the power cord was pinched against the wall and when i pulled it away, it came back on.. thanks!
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Originally Posted by: Gene thanks Gene. I orderd a new starter relay. Once it comes in Ill install and let you know what happens. Thanks for your advice. Ill keep you posted.
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