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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
frankiec Posted: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:06:42 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks for the info. Just bought the controller board for $150 with shipping, but haven't had a chance to swap it out yet.
nukechargerboy Posted: Thursday, July 29, 2010 10:54:03 AM(UTC)
 
GE rep came and put a new card in for free. I googled this model, they must know something is wrong with these. Another guy got one replaced for free, like i did. It cost me a new fan and a POS service guy from a local shop. I won't use them again.
frankiec Posted: Friday, July 23, 2010 5:29:37 AM(UTC)
 
Thanks--that would explain it. Will order new controller board today.
richappy Posted: Thursday, July 22, 2010 2:25:22 PM(UTC)
 
I believe for a two winding condenser motor, one winding gets a square wave, which in your case is missing. Therefor, you have a bad motherboard. Just make sure you use the new condensing motor when you replace the motherboard.
frankiec Posted: Thursday, July 22, 2010 1:35:00 PM(UTC)
 
Originally Posted by: frankiec Go to Quoted Post
I'm having the exact same problem. I'm getting about 13.5 V on both condenser fan connector pins (vs. white ground wire) when the compressor is running. Bought a new fan motor, and it didn't work. Resistance values for new fan and old are pretty much identical.

If the controller board is putting out the right voltages and the fan motor(s) is(are) good, what else could be the problem?


The refigerator model number is PDS22MCRBCC. The controller board model number is AP4436216 .
richappy Posted: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 12:09:07 AM(UTC)
 
For Frankiec, re-post with the correct model #
frankiec Posted: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 6:20:21 PM(UTC)
 
I'm having the exact same problem. I'm getting about 13.5 V on both condenser fan connector pins (vs. white ground wire) when the compressor is running. Bought a new fan motor, and it didn't work. Resistance values for new fan and old are pretty much identical.

If the controller board is putting out the right voltages and the fan motor(s) is(are) good, what else could be the problem?
nukechargerboy Posted: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 1:56:21 AM(UTC)
 
Yes, I put a small fan back there to help cool everything down. I don't want to go for a compressor. The fan I ordered is the exact replacement for the one originally installed. I'll take the old one to work and megger it to see if it's shorted. It has over 1kohms by my fluke.
richappy Posted: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 12:32:21 AM(UTC)
 
You probably have a two winding condenser motor. To confirm, check your schematic, behind the control panel, or behind the front kick panel. The schematic I have shows a common red wire and a white wire to one winding, and a yellow wire to the other. Set your meter to dc voltage. You must have voltage between the red wire and white one and the yellow wire and white wire. Sorry, I will later produce a schematic when I figure out how to scan and load my scribble schematic. Missing one voltage and the motor will not run. Both voltages should be around 12VDC
Also, I assume you put a box fan in the back to keep the fridg. running well.
nukechargerboy Posted: Monday, June 21, 2010 4:05:07 PM(UTC)
 
I checked the voltage, I have 12.44 VDC at two pins, one pin reads nill and one pin has nothing in the connector. Is the motherboard bad with these voltages or did I get a bum motor? It seems like the motor is defective, it'll roll over slowly but it isn't moving ant air.
It's the condensor fan for clarification, the one next to the water/ice valve.