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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
ThatGuy Posted: Sunday, November 27, 2016 6:48:28 AM(UTC)
 
It sounds like you have a weak or bad connection somewhere. If you're getting voltage at the ignitor, but it still won't glow, something is barely connected. Check all your wires and the cord. Even the plugin. You need something that pulls around 4 amps to test with.
paulcoats Posted: Sunday, November 27, 2016 5:16:31 AM(UTC)
 
The first thing I did I did was check the voltage on the ignitor leads, and it was 118v. Which I assume is fine. So I assume I could have 2 problems. 1: The ignitor is not working correctly or is the wrong one. It is requiring a higher amperage than what the oven provides so it works on the lamp cord in a socket but not in the oven. 2: The ignitor is fine but the ignitor circuit is not providing the correct amperage.
I don't have a amperage meter but I am going to borrow one and see what it amperage on the circuit is, and then check the ignitor on the lamp cord and see what it is requiring.
ThatGuy Posted: Sunday, November 27, 2016 4:29:20 AM(UTC)
 
The parts of the igniter circuit are in series. The power comes from the range's hot side of the cord, goes to the control (electronic computer or mech. thermostat) then it goes to the gas valve then to the igniter and back to the neutral line on the cord.

Anything that breaks the circuit will stop it from glowing. I usually take my volt meter and work my way through the circuit until I find what is stopping the power.
paulcoats Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 7:46:39 PM(UTC)
 
I wired up the ignitor to a lamp cord and it lit right up. There must be something else wrong with my oven. Transformer? Any other suggestions? Is it time for the repairman?
ThatGuy Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 6:34:38 PM(UTC)
 
Those igniters run on 110 to 120 volts AC. You should be able to wire on up to a lamp cord and test them. Just be careful. They get yellow hot after a couple of minutes and will set fire to anything to close to them. Actual resistance varies from one to the next. I personally never go by resistance.

Its quite possible to encounter two bad igniters. Perhaps the third time will be the charm. Good luck.
paulcoats Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 6:06:40 PM(UTC)
 
Yes, that is what the ignitor looks like. It is for the boiler. The first one lit up fine, but broke after. The second one which was the exact same model did not light up at all.
I was very careful not to touch the ignitor. I took it back out after it did not light and it looks fine.
If this is not the correct part why would the first one light up?
ThatGuy Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 5:27:13 PM(UTC)
 
Fisher Paykel looks like this

UserPostedImage
ThatGuy Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 5:21:58 PM(UTC)
 
That's a generic igniter. Did you match it up by size or cross-ref the original part number? Igniters are very sensitive to vibration and mechanical shocks. Also you should never touch the ceramic end, it will cause it to burn up.

I did find a model no. RGT-305. Its PDF shows two different igiters for bake a broil.

https://www.appliancefactorypart...ntent/pdfs/140404-12.pdf
paulcoats Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 4:57:54 PM(UTC)
 
The Brand is DCS, it is made by Fisher-Paykel. It is over 10 years old. The ignitor he gave me to replace the original was RobertShaw 41-206. It is flat. https://www.robertshaw.com/Produ...s/41-206/?cat=2147484238
ThatGuy Posted: Saturday, November 26, 2016 4:21:29 PM(UTC)
 
I'm not finding anything with your model number. What brand is it?

Was your original igniter round or flat? How old is this range?