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Hey,
it is useful..........:) Thanksss
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See below. So how did you get the screws out. I've been at this two days. Can't get bottom plate out so more room and can't get down to screws holding the gas pipe bracket. And can't of course get to the screws. I am truly cluless, however. Maybe there's some kind of offset driver or wrench or something. HELP! Otherwise it's going to cost about $183 to get it done. Thanks. Don Originally Posted by: plink49 Thanks Gene,
Other than the fact that whoever designed the location of the mounting bracket for the burner should be put in front of a tribunal, the replacement of the igniter went very smoothly. The bracket with the 2 screws with hex heads is where you can't get a socket or wrench to undo them and took me 3 times a long to remove/replace that bracket than the remainder of the job. I wound up replacing the screws with stainless steel sheet metal screws with phillips heads so they can be removed at least a little bit easier the next time.
This forum is great!
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Check for 120 VAC to the igniter while the control calls for Bake. Post the results.
Gene.
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sf377pegw1 its a whirlpool gas range. Oven won't light, but broiler and burners still do.
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Originally Posted by: selder Ok so I've replaced the oven igniter, it worked so I put everything back together. Now it won't even come on. Seems to me like there would be a short or something somewhere but I don't know where to start. any help would be appreciated. What was the original problem? What is the complete model number of the oven? Gene.
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Ok so I've replaced the oven igniter, it worked so I put everything back together. Now it won't even come on. Seems to me like there would be a short or something somewhere but I don't know where to start. any help would be appreciated.
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I have a Maytag MGR4451BDW Stove. Only 2 of the 4 ignigtors work. I can move the burners around and they will spark in different spots. I checked and there are 3 ignitors with the same part number and one with a different part number. The only difference I see is the one has a wider spade than the rest. What would be the reason? If I replace all the ignitors, will that fix my problem? Thanks Homer
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Sounds like the problem is a bad oven control board, but there is a small chance for the door latch to be bad as well. Unfortunately there are no instrumental tests in such situation. I would replace the control board first. - The control board Part number: AP3957552
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After cleaning cycle I have always gotten a F code. I have only used the clean 3 times on this range. This time I got the F2 which says (for an unknown reason the oven temp has exceeded the preset threshold. The only other code we got was fc, & it says this cod means that component has failed somewhere in door lock circuit. Even after unplugging for a long time we either had lock just clicking off & on constantly, or would not unlock. It is like the lock function is shorting out. Do you have any suggestions what this could be?
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