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I have a whirlpool SF362LXSB0 range and the oven and broiler will not work. The first repairman said it was the gas valve. The second repairman changed the gas valve and said the spark module needed to be replaced at the cost of $400 and that I may as well buy a new one :mad: So I order the spark module and replaced it myself but still nothing!! Can anyone tell me what to do now? I have already dumped enough money in this old range that still doesn't have a working oven :confused: Many Thanks in advance
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I am wondering if someone might be able to help me. I live on a military base and maintenance has been out four separate times for the same issue. I am not sure the age of this oven. (it wouldn't surprise me if this oven was from the stone age!) This issue concerns a Whirlpool Accubake oven, model #: SF362LXSQ, serial #: RT0710351. Today, maintenance came out and said, they can't find anything wrong. Because they can't see the issue, they can't diagnose, much less fix it. There's nothing wrong with it. They turned the oven on, waited 20 minutes total and nothing happened. Last Friday, I did the same thing, went to pull the chicken out of the oven 40 minutes later and it was still raw.
I am hoping that someone on this forum can help me, so that I can help maintenance. At this point, I'd do it myself but I am not trained or qualified to fix ovens.
Anyhow, I'll turn on the oven to prepare for baking and set the temp for 350*, the preset/prewarm 10 minute timer clicks on as do the actual oven and I hear a whoosh sound indicating that the gas has been lit. I wait the 10 minutes, put in my dinner, and walk away for 20 -30 minutes. When I come back, the oven has no heat, I can grab the pans out of the oven with my bare hands. The food is raw. However, the temperature still reads 350*. The maintenance man said, sometimes we have temporary power surges/outages that will shut the oven off. If this is the case, wouldn't the oven clock then read 00:00 and be blinking on and off, and NOT read the original temp of 350* that I had previously set? :confused: This doesn't happen every single time, but the frequency has been increasing lately. This was our first maintenance call when we moved in 1 1/2 years ago. They have been called out 2 times in the first year, and now, 2 times in this past month. What could possibly be wrong with this oven? I would appreciate any advice.
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If there is no gas flows on start up but the gas valve checks OK then very likely the problem is a bad spark module because it sends to the gas valve command to open the gas. Check the wire harness and the connection at the J1 plug on the spark module. Check for 120 VAC between the J1-1 and the J1-4 pins on the spark module while the control calls for Bake. This test must be done within a few seconds after the Bake was initiated. If the reading is incorrect, replace the spark module. - The spark module Part number: AP3672576
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No continuous clicking. Nothing, then when it clicks, it starts within 1-2 clicks.
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Originally Posted by: folsom  ...After the 'Heat' indicator displays on oven panel, it can take a couple of minutes for the burner to ignite and begin to heat, or it may not come on at all... Does it keep clicking during this time? If it does, check the Bake burner as described in one of our previous threads: http://forum.appliancepartspros...e-will-not-stay-lit.html and post the results. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene What is the end of the model number?
Gene. Sorry did not notice the hanging 5 before. Thank you in advance.
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What is the end of the model number?
Gene.
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Whirlpool model GS395LEGQ. Symptom is oven or broiler will only ignite and heat intermittently. After the 'Heat' indicator displays on oven panel, it can take a couple of minutes for the burner to ignite and begin to heat, or it may not come on at all. Broiler behavior is very similar. No smell of gas. I've tested the gas valve regulator as described on page 1 of this thread. Each pair measuring 216'ish. Please advise.
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Hi, I am back around as now my crappy sears dryer is not heating right. I'll be posting over there. On this matter, I have no doubt you are correct. Funny thing was that a good kick down on the bottom pan and giving the whole range a good jarring seemed to resolve that problem... I was in the middle of cooking something and it started cooling off so I noticed it was up the tricks again. It was hot, I could not touch it to mess around with it, so I simply "banged it". I have had no issues since....:) Originally Posted by: Gene
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Originally Posted by: Gene Tom, Check for 120 VAC between the wires connected to the J1-6 & J1-4 (at least one wire should be disconnected) at the spark module while the control calls for Bake. If there is proper voltage, replace the spark module. If the reading is incorrect, replace the control board. - The spark module Part number: AP3672576
Hi Gene, I replaced spark module, and oven still didn't work. Then I replaced the control board, and the oven still didn't work. What else could it be? Thanks for your help. Tom
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