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None of my oven elements show 240(120 but not 240) side to side. When individual oven modes on
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[COLOR="Blue"]How do I test for 240V? Do I disconnect the two wires from the element, turn the oven on, and measure each wire's voltage referenced to the ground?[/COLOR]
Not quite that way, you do not measure to ground, you measure from one wire to the other. Or since the element is not coming on you could just leave the element attached and measure across it.
[COLOR="Blue"]You mentioned that the two wires are 180 degrees out of phase of eachother. How would the negative read on the multimeter?[/COLOR]
Negative does not apply since you are measuring AC not DC.
[COLOR="Blue"]Would it still read 120V?[/COLOR]
No it should not. The element is not connected to Neutral just across the L1 to L2 lines with a relay or two and perhaps an over-temp thermostat wired in series with it.
[COLOR="Blue"]Sorry for all of the questions, I never had to fix an oven although I have done a lot of electrical work[/COLOR]
Don't worry about the number of questions, we are here to help and educate.
All of us did not know the answers at one point and also had to ask someone.
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Thanks for your help. How do I test for 240V? Do I disconnect the two wires from the element, turn the oven on, and measure each wire's voltage referenced to the ground? You mentioned that the two wires are 180 degrees out of phase of eachother. How would the negative read on the multimeter? Would it still read 120V? Sorry for all of the questions, I never had to fix an oven although I have done a lot of electrical work. Thanks again.
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Yes that is how you get 240 volts.
Basically you have two 120 volt AC supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. When one side is 120 volts positive that other side is 120 volts negative and therefore the difference between the two is 240 volts.
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Originally Posted by: denman 
If you are measuring the voltage referenced to Neutral or ground/frame you will always see 120 volts. On most units one side of the element is always connected to one side of the line (example L1) so always has power to it. If you then measure to the other side of the element you will also see 120 volts as there is no current flow and therefore no voltage drop. So this reading is again 120 volts.
Oven elements run on 240 volts (L1 to L2).
I don't have power to either side of the element when oven is off. When I measure voltage referenced to Neutral or ground I read 120V. Are you saying that 120V goes in from both wires connecting to the element to produce the 240 volts (120V on wire 1 + 120V on wire 2)?
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As magician59 said you have to check for 240 volts across the element. If you are measuring the voltage referenced to Neutral or ground/frame you will always see 120 volts. On most units one side of the element is always connected to one side of the line (example L1) so always has power to it. If you then measure to the other side of the element you will also see 120 volts as there is no current flow and therefore no voltage drop. So this reading is again 120 volts. Oven elements run on 240 volts (L1 to L2). This is why it is very important to unplug the unit when changing elements. Here are your parts Replacement parts for General Electric JKP14WP2WG Electric range | AppliancePartsPros.comYou will notice 2 limit switches (thermostats) (Items 158 and 159 in Section 1), one is probably for the fan but the other is probably for the oven elemnts. If you have 240 volts going into the unit then the one for the elements may be blown. Remove power from the unit and check them with a meter. The one for the elements should be 0 ohms. The above is a bit of a guess as getting tech info on a GE is difficult, they like tro keep everything a secret.
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On the oven it reads 120/240V, which leads me to believe it could be either. Plus, it's always been 120VAC and it worked fine before losing the bake element. The element just burnt out, so I replaced it with some new ones. In my previous post, I already stated that it was giving 120VAC at the elements when it was turned on. Any other ideas?
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Check the poweer source. You need 240VAC. If the outlet is OK, check the connection where the cord attaches to the range. If that's OK, check for 240VAC at each element when a cook cycle is selected. Listen for the sound of cycling relays. Let us know what you observe.
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I ordered two new elements and installed them, but they do not heat. I checked for continuity in the heating elements and they have a reading of .017 and .030 for the two elements which seems OK. When the oven is on, the elements are receiving a 120V on each side of both the heating elements, so it seems to be getting power, but not heating at all. The oven's control panel has power and the oven light works. There's no error messages. Does anyone have any ideas as to what's wrong?
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