Aduckoutofwater

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I cannot find a wiring diagram foe this unit and it may be totally different from Fusion's. There are some units out there that actually run twm elements to get different heat settings.

If you do not have the wiring diagram. take a look in the control console, quite often they are stored there.

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER5634AN0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203399125.pdf

1. Dryer will not heat. I checked the thermal cutoff for continuity and it appears to be bad. I tried the dryer by touching the wires to the thermal cutoff together and it heated. Is there any other element that needs to be replaced when the cutoff goes bad? Both thermastats appear to be fine.

2. Dryer will not turn off. This is an old problem. When the dryer heated properly, the timer would turn and it would cycle from hot to cold properly; however, it will not turn the dryer off. I must manually turn the timer to "click" it to off. I am not sure what part needs to be replaced to fix this.

I am assuming by thermal cutoff you are referring to the one on the heater assembly. The one on the blower would have stopped the motor.

You may have a grounded element.
This can cause both the above problems:
1. The heating coil is not regulated by the thermostats so overheats and blows the fuse.
2. The timer will not advance when in an Auto cycle but will advance in Timed Dry. In Auto the timer motor gets power from the heating coil when it shuts off. So if it never shuts off the timer will not advance.

You have to find out what caused it to go.
Note: that sometimes they do just blow on their own but changing it without checking other things is a gamble.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case (grounded element). This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If the above is OK then you will also have to replace the hi-limit as it should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.

You still have to find out why it blew.
Check the seal (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).