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Originally Posted by: thorning  Also look for a burned wire/terminal. A meter is indespensible in checking for this type of problem +1 on that-- if you work with anything elec it is a must. @hoymanj - the element only needs 2 120 v lines reaching it, one through timer and thermostats and the other from motor centrifugal switch. Without a multimeter for testing you would just be throwing parts at it. It could be the motor, timer, terminal block, wiring, etc... get yourself a cheap multimeter. Remote diagnosis without info is difficult. You could quickly spend more in parts than it's worth by the time we stumble on the right one. Once you can properly test it I'm sure we can help.
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Also look for a burned wire/terminal. A meter is indespensible in checking for this type of problem
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I did all the things that you mentioned still no luck. The thermal cut off switch #is AP3094244. I bought I through this company. Thank you.
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There are a bunch of possibilities but you've hit both likely suspects. Do you have a multimeter that you can use to perform volt/ohm checks? They are cheap at any Harbor Freight, HD or Lowe's, auto parts store etc...
Also the thermal cutoff is the uppermost thermostat on this design, in terms of location on the duct and temperature. It should have come with the thermostat that mounts down by the element connections?
What was the part # of the thermal cutoff?
Finally did you reset the breaker by turning it fully off and back on a few times? It sounds obvious but I see it a few times a month and have to charge $100 to do it.
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My dryer wasn't heating up so I replaced the heating element and thermal cut off switch. I still have no heat but everything else still works. Is there something else I need to replace or do? Thank you.
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