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Sorry for the flurry of posts but could you give me the party number for the cycling thermostat? I tried doing a search on this site and I didn't see anything that looked like the one I currently have. Maybe they updated the part like they did with the hi limit thermostat. Thermos
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I know you mentioned in a previous post that you were only interested in the two large terminal connections on the cycling thermostat. I just happened to test the smaller connections on the cycling thermostat and the light on the continuity tester did not light. I should have read your earlier post where you suggest replacing the cycling thermostat.
Does this mean the cycling therm is bad?
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If he doesn't have one, I'll just go to Lowe's or Home Dept , buy one and then return it when I'm done. How much would it cost for a multimeter that will give me the readings I need to see?
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OK. I'll talk to my next door neighbor. He has just about everything. Does the multimeter work the same way as a continuity tester? I'm guessing there would be meter or numerical output. If so, what should it be testing at.
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Hey bro.
Having trouble with the Manage Attachments feature. When I click on Choose File, nothing happens. If you don't mind, text me your phone number and I'll send them from there I know that works. My number is 609 431-3539. I took pictures of the various component and the heating element.
Thanks
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Ok in the mean time do you know anyone that might have a digital multimeter?
If so see if you can borrow it and test the heating element. I believe it may be good. Your tester may not be whats needed to check this.
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There are no breaks in the heating element. The red wire that I repaired runs from the top connection on the cycling thermostat. That also tested fine. I'm assuming since the only part that failed continuity was the new heating element that it is the culprit. Going to call Customer Service tomorrow and see if they can send out a replacement immediately instead of them waiting for me to return the element.
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Based on that can you see any obvious breaks in the element?
Test also the wires you repaired to make sure they have continuity.
I'm not to confident about your style tester, it may not work on this element due to the amount of resistance through it. If there are no obvious breaks in the element the issue may be somewhere else.
Any chance you could post some pictures of what you have?
1. the wiring
2. the heating element
3. the back side showing the thermostats
You can post pics by clicking on "Go Advanced" next to the post quick reply.
Then scroll down to the Attach files and click on manage attachments.
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Heating element is out of the dryer, nothing connected to it. I tested both the inside and outside connectors, and the light didn't go on. All other items treated fine.
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Mr. S,
Sorry to hear your having problems. Please try to run a continuity test on the heating element alone. In other words unplug the two connected terminals and test just the element itself with nothing attached.
We will address the issue of terminal ends after we determine if the element is good or not.
You may choose to uninstall the heating element then test it while looking at the element. If you get no continuity you can inspect it to see if it is broken somewhere.
Get back to me with your results.
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