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Just to close the loop on this issue for anyone else who might encounter similar issues, in my case the problem was something within the timer (not the timer motor but the timer itself) - replacing the timer resulted in the dryer no longer tripping the breaker; it also resolved the drum not stopping its rotation when the dryer door would open.
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Let me look at the diagram and get back to you. As far as the thermostats, many people replace all the components at once if they are replacing the fuses just to prevent further issues.
The cycling thermostat is opening and closing so it may be okay, and it may be labeled with the upper limit number.
A bad thermostat or switch shouldn't cause a breaker to trip though.
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Cletus -
In trying to figure out why the breaker is tripping, I tested every wire for continuity on the wire, as well as continuity to the metal frame. Every wire looks and tests ok, except a white wire that originates at the middle connector on the terminal block (see attached photo). This wire splits at the terminal with one end going to the door switch and the other going to the timer. These wires tested for continuity when connected to the metal frame. Would they be the cause of the short that trips the breaker, or is this a natural continuity given that also connecting to this middle connector on the terminal block is the ground wire?
I again tested the door switch and it tests 0 ohms so I feel confident that the switch is not what is keeping the drum turning when the door is open. The white wire that feeds the switch that I mentioned above as showing continuity with the metal cabinet - could that wire be the cause of the door switch not stopping the drum spin?
Is there a way to test the motor to determine if it is bad?
Cletus, any further help would be really great - thanks for your time - I appreciate it.
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[FONT="]CletusT - thank you so much for responding.
[/FONT]
The cycling thermostat (503979) tests closed at room temp but on a hot plate it switched open at about 110 degrees; since the thermostat is labeled to switch open at 153 degrees this would appear to need to be replaced - would you agree?
The heater thermostat down by the blower wheel (AP4070513) tests open as well. Also replace this?
Would one or both of those not working contribute to the circuit breaker tripping?
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Cletus - thanks for your help - I attempted to post a reply but it was denied due to: Post rejected because of a rating of :20 Rejection set at 20
I sent an email with my reply to forum at appliancepartspros.com - hopefully the admnistrator will be able to post it for me.
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A bad cycling thermostat will cause issues like this. As far as why it runs with the door open, would likely be a bad door switch.
I have seen bad cycling thermostats allow the dryer to exceed 325 degrees, which can fry wiring and still allow the element to function.
With the breaker tripping, I would suspect a short somewhere inside the cabinet, or the motor being bad.
Did you also replace the heater thermostat down by the blower wheel part AP4070513?
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Hello, My Amana dryer (NDE2330AYW) stopped working in the middle of a drying cycle and would not start back up. Testing the high limit thermal fuse w/multimeter found it to be open, so I replaced that along with the high limit thermostat (as recommended in the service manual). At this time also noticed the insulation on short black wire connecting the heating element to the high limit thermostat was showing signs of heat damage on the end connecting to the heating element, so I replaced that as well. Dryer started immediately after repair and ran with heat for nearly a full cycle (~60 minutes) before the breaker tripped. Dryer would not start back up immediately but after a period of time (60 minutes) it started again but took an exceptionally long time to dry clothes. In the days following the dryer would routinely start and heat (testing with a meat thermometer in the dryer showed temps over 200 degrees) but would not stay on for more than 5-10 minutes - it also would not start back up immediately after - suspect a thermostat had been tripped and the temperature needed to cool down before allowing restart. The dryer door also being opened would not stop the drum from spinning. I disassembled the dryer again and did the following:
- cleaned the entire internal area of the dryer so it is lint-free - you could eat your dinner off the insides of this machine now, but prior it wasn't particularly linty
- cleaned the exhaust vent to the outside of the house so it is clear of lint and not kinked
- checked and confirmed the power socket is providing 240 volts
- checked all three terminals on the dryer with the power cord plugged in and the two outer terminals are each receiving 120V (240V together)
- checked the plug ends with the corresponding terminals - all three show 0 ohms
- checked the timer, operating thermostat, new high-limit thermal fuse & high-limit thermostat, heating element, start button, dryer door switch - all test at 0 ohms except for the heating element, which tests at 1-2 ohms
- checked the connection on the motor where the black and blue wires attach and it tests at 0 ohms
Putting the dryer back together and plugging it in, I pressed the start button which tripped the breaker. The start button now tests open, so that will have to be replaced. Questions:
- why is the dryer tripping the breaker?
- why is the drum still rotating when the door opens if the door switch tests as closed?
- why is the dryer stopping after running only 10 minutes?
- why would the short black wire connecting the heating element to the high-limit thermostat show heat damage; what is the underlying cause that needs to be addressed?
I am determined to fix this myself but I'll be damned if I can figure out what is up. Any suggestions on next steps or causes would be really, really appreciated - thanks so much!
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