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Repairman came out and test all the components, for some reason the motor had been unplugged! None of it makes sense how it would come unplugged, unless the first repairman unplugged it when testing it and didn't plug it back in? I am a happy camper again with a working dryer. Thanks for all your previous input and suggestions.
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And just a note...the light in the dryer works, the timer is counting down, it is powering up and does it's little sing song thing, you can turn the drum with your hand, its just when you go to start it, it has the three faint clicking noise and then if you stop it or open the door the clicking noise.
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Bummer...door switch wasn't the culprit.
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I ordered the door switch today and will try that first, I'll let you know if that's it. Thx!
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Yes it could be a the door switch.
I cannot find any tech info on this unit.
You could check it with a meter.
Also most units have a thermal cut-out (fuse) in line with the motor that will stop it from running.
It may also have a belt switch that will also kill power to the motor.
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It is a LG...in the back of my mind I keep thinking the dryer door switch. It is with opening the door that all my problems started.
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Who makes this dryer?
I cannot find any info on it.
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When you go to start it, there are three faint clicking noises coming from the top left of the dryer, then if you open the door, there are again the faint clicking noises..thought maybe that info would help? Thanks so much!
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Okay...we have run new electric and we have power, lights, etc., go to start it and it acts like it wants to, but you hear a couple faint clicking noises and nothing. Any ideas? We're getting closer to a working dryer.
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Yes it is a power problem.
Neutral to L1 is the side of the line that powers the drum light, the motor and the control board and it should be 120 volts. Since you have 0 the unit is dead.
Where were your measurements taken?
If at the terminal strip try unplugging the dryer and checking power at the wall receptacle.
My guess would be that you have lost Neutral.
The L1 voltage is then feeding back through part/s in the dryer and that is why you see 240 volts Neutral to L2.
If the readings at the plug are
L1 to L2 is 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral are 0 volts.
Then switch off the breaker and check the wall receptacle.
If the readings at the wall are
L1 to L2 is 240
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral are 120 volts.
Then use resistance with the line cord unplugged to see that the line cord wires have continuity. Could be the Neutral wire in the line cord is open.
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