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Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
denman Posted: Saturday, August 20, 2011 6:28:09 AM(UTC)
 
[COLOR="DarkRed"]5. Rather than have to mess with the main inside of the unit. Measure at the Timer switch 4 White wire. It should be infinite ohms. I got 1[/COLOR]
I am assuming that 1 on your meter is for infinite ohms, so this is OK.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]6. Push the start button and it should drop to a couple ohms. This shows that the thermal fse and the motor windings are OK. I got 0.03[/COLOR]
This also looks OK

[COLOR="DarkRed"]7. Disconnect the wires going to T at the Timer Switch 4. Measure to T, again it should drop to a couple ohms when the start button is pressed. I got 1.319 when the start button was pressed.[/COLOR]
This looks like the problem, looks like T to W contacts are not closing properly.
Since you disconnected all wires from T then the resistance you see could be in the contacts.
More likely is that Timer Switch 3 WB is connected internally to T on Timer Switch 4 and what you see is the timer motor in parallel with the electronic control. If this is the case then Timer switch 4 is not closing.

I would check your L1 to Timer Switch 4 W with push to start activated using the 200 ohms scale. It should be around 1.5 ohms. This just checks that there is not a short in the motor which could blow the Timer Sw2itch 4 contacts. Just a precaution.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
dron Posted: Monday, August 15, 2011 6:28:25 AM(UTC)
 
OK. I found the following post, which provided some additional troubleshooting steps to try (see http://forum.appliancepartspros...-dryer-not-running.html). I set my meter to measure ohms on it's 2K setting. My results are highlighted in Red. Seems to me that the timer is the problem. Can anyone confirm this?

1. L1 to BK on the timer, should be 0 ohms. [COLOR="Red"]I got 0.03[/COLOR]
2. Disconnect wires to BU and measure at BU there should be 0 ohms. [COLOR="Red"]I got 0.03[/COLOR]
3. Reconnect the BU wires. Measure at the BLUE on the start relay. Should be infinite ohms. [COLOR="Red"]I got 1[/COLOR]
4. Push the start switch and it should drop to 0 ohms. [COLOR="Red"]I got 0.03[/COLOR]
5. Rather than have to mess with the main inside of the unit. Measure at the Timer switch 4 White wire. It should be infinite ohms. [COLOR="Red"]I got 1[/COLOR]
6. Push the start button and it should drop to a couple ohms. This shows that the thermal fse and the motor windings are OK. [COLOR="Red"]I got 0.03[/COLOR]
7. Disconnect the wires going to T at the Timer Switch 4. Measure to T, again it should drop to a couple ohms when the start button is pressed. [COLOR="Red"]I got 1.319 when the start button was pressed.[/COLOR]
dron Posted: Saturday, August 13, 2011 2:27:05 PM(UTC)
 
SITUATION/SYMPTOMS: We just moved into a home, and to get our dryer (Whirlpool LEN2000PWO) to fit in position, I installed a rigid dryer vent, which consists of a connection to a 2"x6" rectangular duct that goes up 18 inches or so to a 4 inch diameter elbow that connects to the home's vent outlet. Last night, the dryer was running when I was headed to bed, so I opened it to see if the load was dry. It wasn't, so I closed the door and pressed the Push to Start switch to start the dryer again. Unfortunately, it wouldn't start. I heard sounds from the timer motor and the Push to Start switch clicked when I pushed it...but nothing else happened. The same symptoms continue today...sounds from the timer motor unless in an Off position plus a click when I push the Push to Start switch.

TESTS RUN: Today, I spent the day troubleshooting. I tested the following components for appropriate continuity: Door switch, Electric heating elements, Hi-limit thermostat, Operating thermostat, Thermal cutoff, Thermal fuse, Push to Start switch. I even rigged a wire to bypass the Push to Start switch, but the dryer still wouldn't start. I also checked the status of the timer's leads when the dryer's dials were in various positions. Everything seemed to check out fine.

While I had the back of the dryer off, I also vacuumed out the venting area, in which I found dust, sand, lint, pebbles, a couple screws, and a miniature light saber.

The motor was running fine when I opened the dryer door last night. I'm getting perplexed at what the possible problem could be. Any ideas on next steps to diagnose?