Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Post a reply
From:
Message:

Maximum number of characters in each post is: 32767
Bold Italic Underline   Highlight Quote Choose Language for Syntax Highlighting Insert Image Create Link   Unordered List Ordered List   Left Justify Center Justify Right Justify   Outdent Indent   More BBCode Tags
Font Color Font Size
Security Image:
Enter The Letters From The Security Image:
  Preview Post Cancel

Last 10 Posts (In reverse order)
Admin / APP Team Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 4:08:12 PM(UTC)
 
- Inexpensive Multitester (or get one from RadioShack)

Your dryer has a round igniter, and those are not as reliable as flat igniters. Inspect the igniter visually for any cracks or burnt spots. If you find any, replace the igniter (Replacement igniter for your model). DO NOT TOUCH THE GRAY PORTION OF THE IGNITER, DO NOT SHAKE THE IGNITER. Best thing is to inspect the igniter without removing it, use a flash light.

Next, the safety thermostat and the thermistor. Safety thermostat - part 5308015399, number 33 on this diagram. Thermistor - part 134216500, number 15 on this diagram. Either one may have gone out if the dryer got too hot (though sometimes for no reason). Check the dryer vent system, make sure there is no restriction.
Admin / APP Team Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 3:51:00 PM(UTC)
 
Quote:
go out in the middle of burning like it did
Really? Can you describe exactly what happened?
JohnF Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 3:41:23 PM(UTC)
 
The full # looks like 417.94082500. I think I should buy a meter too...seems like I've had occasion to use one a few times in the last year and haven't had one. Anyway, any help on this is apprecaited! John

PS - where is the thermal fuse located? It seems odd if it's one of the sensors or thermostats that it would go out in the middle of burning like it did....no?
Admin / APP Team Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 1:05:36 PM(UTC)
 
Well, since you've bypassed the flame sensor already and it didn't help, the sensor is probably ok...

Post the complete model number. Should be something like 417.xxxxxxxxxx

Of course it's much easier if you had a meter and were familiar with using one - you could check the flame sensor for continuity (open = bad, closed = good), you could also see if the igniter is getting power (if igniter gets 110 volts and won't ignite = broken igniter), etc. But hey, we can't expect everyone to own a meter :). The downside of not having a meter is we may end up making a wrong guess and have you replace a part you didn't have to replace.

Common reasons for igniter not functioning: Bad igniter or no power to igniter. Second could be caused by a bad thermal fuse, bad flame sensor, or bad timer (very rare). Post the complete model number and I'll take a look.
JohnF Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 4:19:12 AM(UTC)
 
If I get a meter (I'm not too familiar w/ the "meter checking" process), should these parts read some resistance if they're good and straight thru if they're bad? Thanks, John
JohnF Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 3:44:37 AM(UTC)
 
I realize having a meter would be the ideal situation but I don't have one. I guess what I'm asking is, is there any other logical or common part failure that causes the ignitor not to light other than these two parts?
richappy Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 2:14:43 AM(UTC)
 
You must have a meter to check!!
JohnF Posted: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 1:50:10 AM(UTC)
 
I have a 2 yr old Kenmore dryer that won't heat. I've tried disconnecting the sensor (part # 5303281135) and bypassing it and the ignitor still won't light. Could it be the Saftey Thermostat mounted on top of the drum (part # 5308015399)? It was working fine and then 2 days ago in the middle of drying a load, the heat just quit. The drum turns fine and it circulates air, just no heat.

Thanks John