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Had to rescan at lower reolution. Hopefully this works.
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Hey Tim - when I went to troubleshoot my dryer there was a combined wiring diagram/schematic in the control section of the dryer. You may or may not need it now but I thought I would post in case. With it you can make sense of the resistance readings the service manual tells you to measure. Now all I need to do is find my parts.
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I have the dryer working again. I have heat when I put the selector in the Regular position. However, now my dryer never shuts off. The timer advances through the cycle, but when it reaches the end of the cycle, the buzzer never sounds and the dryer keeps running. The time does not advance into the next cycle on the timer, it stays at 0 minutes at the end of the present cycle.
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I've traced my problems to a finicky temperature selector. Unfortunately, I don't think this part is available any more. Also, I always had to run my dryer in the "No Heat" mode in order to get heat - someone obviously miswired the selector at some point in this dryer's prior life. The back of the switch has 5 terminals - molded in at each terminal position are A, B, 1 (no terminal blade here, just a position for it in the case), 2, 3 and 4. At the B ternimal is stamped L1 in silver ink (I'm thinking the line 120VAC goes here), delta/triangle 1 is stamped in silver ink at the 2 terminal, 2 is stamped in silver ink at the 3 terminal, and delta/triangle 3 is stamped in silver ink at the 4 terminal. Hope that makes sense to someone. Details: A & B have continuity in all 3 know positions. In the No Heat position, terminals A/B have continuity with terminal 4/stamped delta 3. In the Regular/Permanant Press position, terminals A/B have continuity with terminal 3/stamped 2. In the Delicate position, terminals A/B have continuity with terminal 3/stamped 2 AND with terminal 2/stamped delta 1.
Question:
What is the correct wiring for this 5 terminal switch. I have 4 leads: orange coming from the terminal block supplying 120VAC, light blue going to the heating element, red going to the timer and black going to the thermostat boost heater. I'm thinking I need to find a combination on the switch that provides a circuit between my orange 120VAC and my light blue at the heating element, but without supplying 120VAC in the no heat position. It also has a delicate position, but I'm not sure what I should do about that.
I've also been over the entire dryer with a fine tooth comb - no wiring diagram anywhere. But with the miswired selector, I'm sure someone has worked on this dryer in the past and lost/took the diagram. I can't find one online...
Thanks,
Tim
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Here is a service manual which may help http://www.servicematters.com/m...brary/docs/RS3200001.pdfUnfortunately it does not include a wiring diagram and I cannot find one on the net. I should add that I have 120/240VAC at the terminal block where the cord attaches, and that, when plugged in and running, I have 120VAC at the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat, and at both ends of the heating element - but no heat. Should I have 120 or 240 at the element? It depends where you are placing your meter leads. If you measure across the heating elements you should have 240 volts.
Or, does it switch back and forth, and if so, what causes it to do that? No the heater is either on or off at 240 volts. The following from your first post looks suspicious Thermostat part number 61372 has 3 leads, orange, blue, red. Orange-blue measures 0.3 ohms, orange-red and red-blue measure infinity. Note that I am guessing here. I found a couple wiring diagrams which may be close to yours in that they also also use a 3 lead thermostat. But the diagrams showed Red, Orange and Purple as the wire colors. The Red is (Common) - power in The Purple is (Normally Closed) - goes to the heating element. Should be 0 ohms at room temperature The Orange is (Normally Open) - goes to the timer motor. Should be open (infinite ohms) at room temperature. So at room temperature the Red/Purple should be 0 ohms. The way this works is the Red/Purple supplies power to the heating element. When the thermostat trips the Red/Orange then supplies power to the timer to advance it. So my guess would be that this thermostat is shot. If you do not have it take a look in the control console for the wiring diagram to confirm this. Also do not know if you do this but always remove at least one wire from any device you are measuring for ohms. This prevents measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
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I should add that I have 120/240VAC at the terminal block where the cord attaches, and that, when plugged in and running, I have 120VAC at the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat, and at both ends of the heating element - but no heat. Should I have 120 or 240 at the element? Or, does it switch back and forth, and if so, what causes it to do that? Thanks.
Tim
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I have an Amana PLE8407W2/LE8407W2 that has stopped heating.
- Motor runs and drum spins.
- Blower blows.
- I have 120/240VAC.
- Exhaust is clear.
- Heating element is intact, no breaks/cracks, and is not shorted to ground.
- Thermostat part number 61372 has 3 leads, orange, blue, red. Orange-blue measures 0.3 ohms, orange-red and red-blue measure infinity.
- Thermostat boosting heater, part number 61401, has 2 leads, black and white. They measure 2300 ohms.
- Limit thermostat part number 62641 has the insulation burned off the short black lead that connects to the heating element. It measures 0.2 ohms.
I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks. Tim
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