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The valve may have been affecting the voltage though that does not explain why it measured low when/if you checked it with the valve disconnected.
Could be both parts were shot.
FYI: It may have been ghost voltage. The units voltage is AC so it is rising and falling in a sine wave pattern. It can induce a voltage in a near by wire, that is basically how a transformer works. You see voltage but there is really no amperage there as the wires are loose coupled.
In any case I am glad to hear you are up and running.
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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I replaced the control board and the fill valve still would not operate. Checked the voltage between the fill valve leads and got 50 vac. Changed the fill Valve and dishwasher has worked Ok. Found the fill valve full of scale from the hot water heater. Glad to have the dishwasher working again. Thank you for your help. I'm still a bit baffled about the voltage across the fill valve leads.
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Thanks. I'll you know how things work out.
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Definitely sounds like you need the control board.
I cannot say anything on the fill valve.
You would have to hook it up to 120 volts to see if it will open.
Perhaps undo both wires from the valve and check the valves connections to the valve body. Both should be infinite ohms (open) What you are checking here is if the winding has shorted to ground.
It could be that just a component on the control board failed or perhaps a bad valve caused the board to fail. It is really hard to say without some indication of overheating on the board which would point to the valve drawing too much current.
So I guess it all comes down to if you want to gamble on the valve being OK.
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The resistance a across the fill valve is 966ohms and is the same across the wires at the control board. Would you agree that I probably need both a contol board and a fill valve?
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Any way to test fill valve? Seems like putting household current across leads should make it open[/COLOR]
Yes that should open it.
Also check that the wires from the control board are OK.
Once you have the fill valve resistance reconnect the wires and undo the wires to the valve/overfill switch at the control board and measure across them. Should be the same as the fill valve.
Use the most sensitive meter scale that will give you a reading.
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Checked the voltage across the leads to the fill valve and consistently get 50vac. Checked resistance across leads for float switch and get zero. I'm afraid both the control board and fill valve are bad. Any way to test fill valve? Seems like putting household current across leads should make it open.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for GU2400XTP86 models | AppliancePartsPros.comRemove the wires to the water valve and attach them to your meter leads. If you now see 120 volts when the unit should be filling I would replace the valve. Also a good idea to remove power from the unit and one wire going to the overfill switch and measure across it's contacts. Use your most sensitive meter scale, it should be 0 ohms. It is a good idea to short your meter leads together before doing this so you can see if it has a 0 offset.
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Our dishes were not getting clean and I realized that intermittently the dishwasher would not fill. I checked the float and that seems to work Ok. After reading another string here on this sight I checked the voltage between the brown and brown and white wires going to the fill valve and only get 49 vac. According to the other string I read I should get 120vac and that this points towards a control board problem. Before I buy a control board I would like to verify that the fill valve is not the problem. I applied regular household current across the electrical leads for the valve but got no sign of actuation. What would you recommend?
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