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bvillere  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 7, 2010 12:03:39 PM(UTC)
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bvillere

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/26/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

GE 30" Profile range with convection self clean oven, in use about a year and a half. Second time around using the Self Clean. Stopped the self clean cycle early and went to bed. In the morning, the motor latch was cycling back and forth, the control panel was showing locked, oven was completely cool, and the self clean would not clear using front panel controls (clear button). The latch stops briefly at each of the locked and open positions, then starts up again. I believe the "LOCKED" on the display flashes varyingly with the latch postion, but I have not noted when it does this during the latch's journey. Other times the 'LOCKED" is steady (not flashing).
Tried: unplugging range, waiting several minutes, plugging back in, and still would not clear.
Tried: unplugging motor latch. Control panel still makes clicking noises (in the same sequence as with the motor latch plugged in), won't clear. Tried unplugging (power) again for a few minutes, no change.
Tried: Opening up oven door (when latch is open). Motor latch stops, but self clean (locked) still won't clear, even when latch is stopped in the fully open position.
Tried: Clearing self clean when latch stopped at the locked position. did not clear.
Tried: Clearing self clean when latch stopped at the open position. Did not clear.
Tested: Ohmmeter reading of oven temp sensor is 1100 +/- ohms at room temperature.
Tried: presenting shorts and opens on the temp sensor wiring to the control panel. Got the expected error codes in each case, but only once. Repeated tests of shorts and open often did not produce error codes for that; the 'locked' condition seemed to override all else in the ERC.
Observed: Have not seen any other error codes, except when shorting or opening the temp sensor.

Replaced: ERC.
Result: NO CHANGE in (mis)operation. None-what-so-ever.

Only thing left is the bloody motor latch (unless the temp sensor is out of spec at 1100 ohms room temp), but given the way the control panel operates with the latch unplugged, (basically no change in state, sounds, or other parameters), and everything else observed, it seems like a very long shot.
Helluva way to design a 'simple' appliance. Any 'expert' advice on servicing Rube-Goldberg-by-GE devices would be appreciated.

UPDATE 6/11/2010:

Problem solved. Limit switch on motor latch for "locked" position indication failed in the closed position. The 'open' position limit switch was working properly (opening and closing as the motor operator continuously cycled) but the continuous 'locked' indication sent to the ERC by the faulty 'locked' limit switch was enough to scramble the delicate brains of this appliance. Switch actually appears to have 'hung up' but is nonetheless unreliable and the solution is to replace the entire latch assembly.

If anyone needs an ERC for this model I have one to sell, reasonably priced. GE part #WB27T10810

It is also instructive to note that in order to access the latch, you swing up the cooktop from the front; it pivots at the rear underneath the control panel. Remove two screws under the front lip and you can swing the top up about 30 degrees, giving access to the latch, the oven door switch and all the wiring laying on top of the oven insulation blanket. The Latch assy unscrews from the front.
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