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GE oven dead after cleancycle

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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Following a selfclean, the oven door could not be opened I jumped the 2 "Latch" contacts in the control board

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2007, 12:01 PM
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Default GE oven dead after cleancycle
Model Number: J KP69WOYIWW   Brand: GE   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Following a selfclean, the oven door could not be opened
I jumped the 2 "Latch" contacts in the control board which got a motor running opening the door.Success!
The upper microwave oven works, the oven light works
All lower oven functions as well as the lower oven touch pad are dead.Looks like maybe a lower oven fuse/breaker someplace?
thanks


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-25-2007, 10:27 AM
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Hello Diet,

It does sound like a thermal fuse (Limit switch) has blown but if you replace it and it blows again in self clean you may have another problem. Possibly in the board.

If you have no display you will have to look on the wire diagram located on the appliance to see if there is a fuse in line between the board and power coming in.

I found two limit switches in the parts breakdown but would have to look at the wire diagram to see where they are going to.

What you will have to do is take an ohm meter and check continuity on the two. They should have continuity.

Click on the two links to see photos, prices and part numbers of the two
Limit switch
Limit switch
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Old 07-25-2007, 05:29 PM
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Unhappy GE XL44 gas range. Oven doesn't work.

I have a ten year old GE XL44 model JGBP30GEV4WH gas range. It worked great until the other day. I have no oven functions at all. Broiler, bake and self clean do not work at all. The igniters do not even glow at all. Also the cycle light that is on when the oven is functioning quit working at the same time. All the top burners and ingniter for the top works fine as well as the clock and timer. I'm thinking thermostat but I would like some advice from someone who knows what there talking about. Thanks..any help appreciated.
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Old 07-30-2007, 05:46 PM
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You might take a look at the wire diagram on the unit to see if there is anything else in line prior to the igniter's . It could the control, thermostat or a switch. If you have an ohm meter you can check continuity between each point
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Old 09-10-2007, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam / APP Team View Post
Hello Diet,

It does sound like a thermal fuse (Limit switch) has blown but if you replace it and it blows again in self clean you may have another problem. Possibly in the board.

If you have no display you will have to look on the wire diagram located on the appliance to see if there is a fuse in line between the board and power coming in.

I found two limit switches in the parts breakdown but would have to look at the wire diagram to see where they are going to.

What you will have to do is take an ohm meter and check continuity on the two. They should have continuity.

Click on the two links to see photos, prices and part numbers of the two
Limit switch
Limit switch
Thanks for the relevant pointers
My oven still does not cook and my wife threatens there will be no goose for Chrismas

I checked the 2 quoted "limit switches"
the first one has 110V across the 2 contacts so is apparently working
the second seems to be a thermal switch that goes on when heated ( by the oven)
There is a large resistance and no voltage across the contacts.But when I jump the contacts a blower in the rear of the oven starts blowing, apparently to cool the space above the oven when it gets too hot?


I checked the circuit board. I have no wiring diagram.

I measured all contacts for volatge
the latch contacts and the oven light have 110V in agreement with working condition as stated, latch has to be jumped across contacts to work

Baste and Bake contacts have no voltage
there is 1 big red wire that has 110V against another black wire

Is this enough to diagnose a faulty board or another fuse/breaker?

thank you again
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Old 09-10-2007, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
My oven still does not cook and my wife threatens there will be no goose for Chrismas
Ouch! I hope that's not the reason for your username

You know how to use a voltmeter, great! Very simple - if the oven board is getting 110 volts, replace the board. You can also visually inspect the board (the "board" is actually two boards connected together - display board and relay board) for any signs of damage.

- Replacement board if you need to see photos or order one.
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Old 09-11-2007, 10:34 AM
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Thanks
I took the 2 connected board out and looked for burns or discoloration, none seen.Doesn't mean they are OK
A thought though.if I may
The input "board" with the push pads is totally dark
looks like it doesnt's get any juice
How do I check/know that this unit is working or getting power? Is it dead because the main board(that is getting power) does not transmit
thanks again
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Old 09-11-2007, 02:32 PM
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So you're saying that you do get power to the two board combo? If that's the case, replace it. You can't get either board separately - it's only made available as a kit (see photos). The problem is most likely with the low voltage transformer on one of the boards (power relay board), but you can't get the transformer separately anyway.
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