[macao]

As I understand,error code f30 indicates oven sensor probe or wiring malfunction.Checked probe and wiring at room temp.,got 1100 ohms.This model has separate clock and control panel,disconnected panel from clock,still received f30.

[macao]

Originally Posted by macao

As I understand,error code f30 indicates oven sensor probe or wiring malfunction.Checked probe and wiring at room temp.,got 1100 ohms.This model has separate clock and control panel,disconnected panel from clock,still received f30.

After weeks of debating whether or not to order an EOC,I opened up the unit again to verify all the wiring and harnesses were intact. Noticed that infinity was read at connector of EOC to oven sensor ,of which, one of the wires connected to Thermal Circuit Breaker under the Control Assembly Panel. When tested it read open,pressing the stem, it read closed. Assembled the unit and VIOLA, it works, no more F30. Neither the circuit diagram taped to the back of the range nor the diagrams online show or mention this Breaker, I uncovered it by physically tracing the wires from the oven sensor to the EOC. The Moral of this story,check, double and triple check. It could save you a lot of money.

[fyrdman]

I had the same issue as macao. Most of the forums don't mention the thermal breakers in the probe circuit. Here's a detailed troubleshooting description.

OK - here's a little tip that might save you a bundle of cash:

The Frigidaire glasstop slide-in Range model # PLES389ECH has a habit of triggering a F30 error, which according to the NEW table of error codes (http://www.applianceaid.com/faultcodes3.html), implies an issue with either the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) panel (located beneath the Control Panel Assembly), or the temperature probe itself (located within the main oven cavity, back wall, upper-left corner). However, a quick glance at page 12 of the Factory Parts Catalog's wiring diagram (http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Frigidaire_PLES389ECH or http://www.serviexcell.com.mx/manuales/PLES389ECH.pdf) shows two thermal breakers wired into the circuit as well.

To check the probe, disconnect power and either pull the probe from the cavity of the oven (two screws, and a disconnect plug) and measure resistance across the probe, or take the Control Panel Assembly off the front (remove 4 cooktop control knobs and 4 teflon mounting nuts) and measure resistance at the EOC P5 quick-disconnect plug (violet wires - see wiring diagram)...it should read approx. 1091 Ohms at room temperature per ApplianceAid's table. If you measured at the probe, an open (infinite resistance) or short (zero resistance) indicates a bad probe. Replace for about $40.00 (per http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5160618).

If you get an open or short by measuring at the P5 plug, the issue is either the probe OR the thermal breakers. Also called a Thermal Cutout Switch (item #141 on p.8 of your parts catalog), one of these buggers is located near the electronic control module for the right rear stovetop burner (#54A, follow the violet wires from EOC to locate it) - since you already have the Control Panel Assembly pulled, reach over and push the button on the breaker to reset it. This may have just solved your error code! For FREE!! If it doesn't reset, you may have to replace the breaker itself (around $16.00).

However, if you measured at the plug and get the appropriate resistance for the entire circuit it's likely that your breakers, probe and wiring harness (always check for disconnected wiring) are fine, and that the problem lies with the EOC itself. This pricey gizmo runs a little over $200, but it's easy to change. My sympathies.

Good luck! Feel free to mail me any contributions should you save yourself a $350+ service call.