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Separate fuses for upper & lower?

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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I have a KitchenAid KEBS278DBS6 double, and the bottom oven quit. (This is long after the apparently all-too-common death by

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Old 01-09-2010, 10:43 AM
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Default Separate fuses for upper & lower?
Model Number: KEBS278DBS6   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I have a KitchenAid KEBS278DBS6 double, and the bottom oven quit.
(This is long after the apparently all-too-common death by cleaning cycle with it's attendant repairs)

I'm hoping there are separate fuses for the upper and lower ovens.

The diagrams I can find don't show such detail.
If there are such fuses, where are they? I have the ovens out of the cabinet and am about to pull the back panels (power is OFF).


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2010, 12:10 PM
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Default Well, never mind.

Let's just call this an informational thread.

Behind the control panel is the Tech Sheet "for Service Technicians Only."
Besides looking like it's going to spontaneously combust any second, it has great diagrams, showing that there are separate thermal overload switches for each oven. They're not quite "fuses," and they both had continuity.

One thing the tech sheet mentions is that many problems are from corrosion or something at connections. I didn't notice any corrosion specifically, but I did wiggle all the connections.

Guess what? The lower oven works now. I would have been truly annoyed to pay a repair person to come wiggle the wires!

Now if I could get rid of that rattle ...

Jonas
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2010, 02:36 AM
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Default

Thanks for getting back to us your info will help others.

The following may come in handy in the future
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%204452026.pdf

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...all%20Oven.pdf

You did not sat what connection was the problem.
If it was at one of the thermal cut-offs there is a product that can reduce corrosion. It is a conductive grease originally designed for aluminum wiring as Al corrodes fairly quickly. Available at most electrical or big box lumber stores.
A very light coat will do the job.

If the problem was at a board connector the following may help if it reoccurs.
The conductive grease will not work here as it will short out the connections but the following usually does the job.
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.
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