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Clock & oven light work & that is about it. Is the clock/timer the brains of this oven? Steve Related

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Old 01-01-2010, 07:47 AM
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Default clock/ timer or control panel?
Model Number: FEB374CHBB   Brand: Frigidaire   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Clock & oven light work & that is about it. Is the clock/timer the brains of this oven?
Steve


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Old 01-01-2010, 08:05 PM
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I took another look at the oven today. The electronic parts list seems pretty small for this oven. It seems that the clock/timer board is the mother board that controls the functions of this oven, but I am hesitant to order one if I am on the wrong track. A Sears tech had looked at this oven a year ago & told the previous owner that it would cost $300 to repair it.
My thoughts are that it can't be the control panel because it alone cost about $300. The clock/timer board is only around $145 so with labor I assume the total would be around $300. My deduction, but I could be wrong.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:13 AM
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Here are the parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FEB374CHBB Frg(v1) / Wall Oven | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a wiring diagram
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodin.../318046208.pdf

Clock & oven light work & that is about it. Is the clock/timer the brains of this oven?
Yes it is the brains.
The control panel is just an input device (keypad)

When you say the clock works, can you program it and everything seems normal but the oven does not come on?
This is probably a power problem or the thermal circuit breaker is open.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker and the elements require both sides of the line for the 240 volts.
Also a good idea to check it with a meter if this does not work.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:40 AM
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Thanks Denman,
Yea, the clock is not programmable, only displayed. I ordered the clock/timer board. That should do it.
Again, thanks.
Steve
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:12 PM
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Denman,
I still have the same problem with the new board. The clock works but is not programmable & no other control panel buttons function either. I checked the voltage coming in to the new board & it is 220V so I guess that rules out the thermal circuit breaker? Any other things to look for?
Steve
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Old 01-14-2010, 01:30 AM
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I would say that odds are the control panel is shot.

This type of problem is always a crap shoot re: is it the control board or the control panel (keypad). The board lights up so it is getting the 120 volts required to run it.

Unfortunately I cannot find a pin out for the keypad so you cannot do a definitive check.

Looking at the price of a new keypad, I am not sure if it makes sense to put that many dollars into this unit especially if you can return the control board.

You could pull the control panel and inspect the tracks in the ribbon cable perhaps one of them has a hairline crack. Also check it for loose or cold solder joints. Cold solder joints are usually a gray color instead of silver, also they may have pin holes. A magnifying glass will help here.
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Old 01-14-2010, 05:40 AM
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Thanks Denman,
I doubt that Part Advantage would let me return the board after already been installed. I guess I'll just chalk this up as a loss unless I can find a break as you say. The circuit breaker for this oven had been replaced about the time the oven went out (a year ago). I'm not sure exactly why & what that has to do with the condition of the oven (surge?)?
Steve
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Old 01-15-2010, 03:41 AM
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The circuit breaker for this oven had been replaced about the time the oven went out (a year ago). I'm not sure exactly why & what that has to do with the condition of the oven (surge?)?
Yes this is puzzling.
The only thing I can think of is that the surge blew a diode in the keypad but usually a blown diode would only effect some keys not all of them.
Unless it shorted a diode out.
Also could be it was just a coincidence.

I would check that the unit is getting the correct voltage on both sides of the line.
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
In your case 110 volts as it looks like your service is 220.
L1 to Neutral powers the board, perhaps a low voltage on this side is doing something weird.
A bit of a long shot but worth looking at.
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