[jappel2]

2 things:
1. left lower burner won't shut off. Stays warm only. Knob turns, but does nothing. "On" light stays on, hence have to shut-off via circuit breaker.
2. Wife (really was her...lol) dropped vinegar bottle, and chipped the far right edge clean off. An actual "nick", about 1/2 inch long, and maybe 1/2 inch into the glass. Top is black, so is the granite, so you have to look good to see it. Before i buy a new one, are there things that can be done.
new kitchenaid wt downdraft is approx. $1400

[Gene]

1. About the burner: pull the knob out and check it from the inside for a crack. If there is nothing wrong then the infinite switch for this burner has to be replaced.

2. About glass top: if it's chipped of at the edge and not very visible - just forget about it. New glass top will cost you about $400 - if you can do it yourself.

- The part number for the knob (black) is AP3030013

- The part number for the infinite switch (left front burner) is AP3672660

- The part number for the glass top (black) is AP3047022

Here are the break down diagrams for the Kitchen Aid cooktop Model KECD865HBL3

Gene.

[wolfim]

Gene -
Your advice is quite helpful. My knob is OK, and I was looking to replace the switch. The parts diagram includes several different parts of the switch: AP3046996, AP3672660, and AP3010400. What do the different parts do? I want to be sure I get what I need.
In addition to the "light won't go off" issue, we have found that our burners tend to heat up very high, then go off, then heat up to high, etc. What we can't do is get any of our burners on stay on low. We've had electric ranges before and never had the kind of problems we have with this one getting a low heat. Would replacing the switches for all burners here here as well?
A final quesion has to do with the parts listed. None of the burners are the same size, and one is a dual coil burner. Do they all use the same switch parts?
Thanks in advance! Michael

[Gene]

Hi Michael,

What is the complete model number of the range?

What is wrong with the burners besides they go "on" and "off" on high setting?

Gene.

[wolfim]

Gene - The model number is the same as the one above, i.e., KECD865HBL3. It's the black model.
Two issues: The first is that the "On" light doesn't go off. The burner is not on. The burner that is involved is the dual-coil burner. This seems to be the same issue as was originally mentioned in this thread.

The 2nd issue is that the burners seem to swap between very high heat and off no matter what setting you put them on. Even at the lowest setting, they seem to fluctuate between "hi" and "off". I don't know if replacing the switches would elimiate this, or if it's some sort of a burner issue. The cooktop was in our home when we bought it (3 years ago), but it was installed in September 2001.

Thanks!

Michael

[Gene]

Originally Posted by wolfim

...Two issues:

1. The first is that the "On" light doesn't go off. The burner is not on. The burner that is involved is the dual-coil burner.

2. The 2nd issue is that the burners seem to swap between very high heat and off no matter what setting you put them on. Even at the lowest setting, they seem to fluctuate between "hi" and "off"...

Michael,

1. There is only one "Power on" indicator light for all burners. How did you know that "The burner that is involved is the dual-coil burner"?

2. According to the "Owners Manual": The surface unit will glow red when the element is turned on. You will see the element cycling on and off – even on the HI setting – to help the area stay at the temperature setting you chose and prevent damage to the glass.

Here are the break down diagrams for the Kitchen Aid cooktop Model KECD865HBL3

Gene.

[wolfim]

Gene -
In his initial post, jappel2 said his burner stayed on low. When my "light" problem first surfaced, I had the same problem, i.e., my dual-coil burner wouldn't shut off completely. The other three worked fine. After a lot of trial-and-error attempts, I did get the dual-coil burner to shut off. However, the power light stayed on. We continue to use the cooktop, but only the three smaller burners. They continue to work fine. Because of the difficulty I had getting the dual-coil to shut off, I have not tried to use it. I have always assumed I would have to replace the switch. The parts diagram shows only one switch type, but several different parts. Knowing which switch part(s) to buy is my dilemma.

In terms of the owners manual, unfortuately, we didn't get that when we bought the house. I understand the need to cycle between on and off to maintain a constant tempertaure and prevent glass damage. What I'm not clear on is why if I put the burner on it's lowest temperature setting the coil gets so how. My wife and I have cooking experience of about 70 years. We've burned more things on this cooktop in 3 years than the rest of our experience combined. And burning occurs almost always on low temperature settings. I'm trying to figure out if: 1) The design of this unit requires each coil to go at least temporarily to "high" when it is used - in which case we can't do anything about it; or 2) There is a problem with one or more switches or burners, and finally 3) My wife and I need to take cooking classes. ()

Thanks,

Michael

[Gene]

Hi Michael,

The part number for the left front (dual) burner switch is AP3672660

A burner not suppose to go on High heat if the temperature set on "low" and the problem in such case is a bad burner switch.

The part number for the right rear burner switch is AP3010400

The part number for the left rear & right front (they are identical) burners switch is AP3046996

Gene.