[Neddster]

A couple weeks ago, our broiler and baker stopped working, even though the stove top burners work just fine. I talked to my brother who is a public school engineer and he said I probably had a bad igniter. I ordered an igniter online, replaced it last week, the oven went on for like 9 minutes, then stopped and hasn't worked since. Prior to the first igniter completely going out, the broiler and baker would randomly work - sometimes for a whole cooking time setting, sometime for a partial setting. There was no rhyme or reason to it. I was told this igniter might be defective since there was a white spot on the back of the igniter (on the groove of the white portion of the igniter. I was told not to touch the sensitive heating element in the igniter as that would cause the spot, however, I never touched it.

Along with the igniter going out, the digital clock was moving slower than normal for regular timekeeping but almost normal for cooking time, even though the baker or broiler did not light. No error codes appeared at any time and it was obviously not on a sabbath time setting.

A contact online told me I might have to replace the clock or clockboard, whatever that is. He said the igniter might still work if the clock/clockboard is replaced but that it might be wise to get both another igniter and a clock/clockboard just to be on the safe side.

My question is this - does the slowness of the clock display have anything to do with the broiler or baker not working? If you think this needs replacing as well, how would I go about it and also, what would this part properly be called? Also, would there be a different part than what I named that could be the culprit? We bought this stove in June of "07 and were stunned that we would experience a malfunction of this appliance so quickly.

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

[Gene]

Unplug the igniter and check for 120VAC to the igniter (at the plug) while the control calls for Bake.

If there is proper voltage, the igniter is the culprit.

If there is no proper voltage, disconnect wires from the gas safety valve terminals (#9 on the diagram) and check for continuity between these terminals.

If there is continuity, replace the control board (aka a clock).

If there is no continuity, replace the gas safety valve.

- The igniter Part number: AP4096256

- The control board Part number: AP4397197

- The gas safety valve Part number: AP4097904

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for MAYTAG MGR4451BDB Range - F/s Std Gas | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[Neddster]

Hi, Gene:

Thank you very much for your prompt reply. I truly appreciate it. I feel like a dunce but would you be so kind to explain how to do what you said.

1. You say to unplug the igniter and check for 120 VAC to the igniter while the control calls for Bake. So what do I do? I'm guessing you mean to set the oven to Bake, meaning the stove is still plugged into the electrical circuit while I inspect. Assuming I do that, how do I check for 120 VAC with the igniter unplugged? Where do I look?
2. You say that if there is no proper voltage, to disconnect the wires from the gas safety valve terminals. I think I know where that's at, thanks in part to the diagram. But how do you define continuity in this sense? What determines continuity?

Thanks again for your anticipated assistance.

Nedd

[Gene]

You have to have a simple multimeter to perform these tests.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

In the first post you said: "I ordered an igniter online, replaced it last week".

My question is: how did you do it?

Gene.

[Neddster]

Hi, Gene:

My brother, who is the chief engineer at the school he works at, told me over the phone when I told him what occurred that it was probably the igniter (or as he called it, the hot surface igniter) that likely caused the problem. He told me how to access it, look it over and where I could get one online. I was able to remove the broiler cover, then the spreader and was able to remove the old igniter. My guess is that the old igniter may have been bad as one of the inside wires apparently caused the outside wire to become loose. However, when I got the new one thru the mail and installed it (fairly easy to do), the oven worked for about 9 minutes and then went out, never since to return. Installation of this was easy.

As far as a multimeter goes, I'll have to look it up and figure how and where to get one. I guess that means I'll have to get this before anything can be done. Thanks for that link as well, very helpful.

Never mind, I saw the link where to get that device. Thanks.

Nedd

[Gene]

Nedd,

Let us know when you ready to proceed further.

Gene.