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-   -   Jenn-Air Dual Fuel Oven Display is Blank (http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/63868-jenn-air-dual-fuel-oven-display-blank.html)

Garry 12-13-2009 01:55 PM

Jenn-Air Dual Fuel Oven Display is Blank
 
Jenn-Air oven control panel/clock display is blank. Sometimes is will reappear as if the power has been off. The clock can be reset at this point and the oven can be turned on. It will operate for a few seconds to a few minutes, but then goes off again. The downdraft fan and the oven lights work as well as the gas ignitors. I think my control panel is at fault, but I'm not sure whether an associated device my be cycling on and off. Can anyone help? Thanks.

denman 12-14-2009 02:52 AM

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for JENN-AIR JDS9860AAP Range - S/c S/i Gas & Elec Duel Fuel | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet and manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026780.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026016.pdf

It could be the control board but may be a bad/dirty connection.
Could be a pain to find and confirm it.
If you can get it when it is alive try to read the fault codes, see the tech sheet.
Do not do too many things at once which is a pain because it slows the process down. The problem with doing too much is if the unit comes up and runs then unless you find/repair an actual fault you will have no idea where to look for it and odds are high that it will fail again, usually when you have a family dinner planned.

Be sure to do this with the unit unplugged. It is very easy to forget this when you are trying something plugging it back in, unplugging it trying something etc.

Since the unit goes totally dead check the wall receptacle also the terminal strip in the unit. Would not hurt to also check the circuit breaker.

Disconnect/reconnect the plugs at and going to the control panel.
Check that all the pins are properly crimped and have not backed out of the receptacles. Check that they are not discolored (dirty) usually a gray or tan color coating.

Check the back of the control board for a cold solder joint to a pin or a component. Best to have a magnifying glass for this. Cold joints will often be a duller silver/gray color or will have holes. Try wiggling the pins and components from the front side while watching it's solder connection on the back side, if the leg moves then it is a bad solder joint. Check the circuit trails on the board you may see a crack across one of them.

Try the following.
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

MicrowaveDisplaycom 12-14-2009 09:55 PM

I wonder if just the display is going blank or if the controller is actually cutting out due to a loss of power...

When it's in the failed state, can you program it?

Does it beep when you press a button in the failed state?

When the clock is set, then the display goes out, when it comes back, do you have to reset the clock?

Can you can and post the schematic page if the "mini-manial" in the unit?

If it's your board, that can be repaired.

Garry 12-17-2009 09:47 AM

Thanks for your reply. The board has power from the high-limit switch even when the display disappears. When it DOES disappear, the clock flashes and has to be reset. Originally, when the unit failed, the clock would operate for several hours if the oven was not in operation. Then it began to shut down more frequently even if the oven was not on. If you turned the oven on, the shutdown would only take a few seconds. Now, it has failed completely and will not even flash. It seems as if it is the board. Opinion?

denman 12-17-2009 06:11 PM

My guess would be the control board as long.
Sounds like a bad solder joint or a component has blown.

Looks like it gets power through pins 1 and 3 (120 volts)
Does not give me a plug number but is at the bottom of the board second from the right in the wiring diagram.
Only way to be sure is to measure the voltage here.
If it is getting power and is not coming on then odds are very high that it is the board.


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