[Mark246810]

One element stopped working entirely a couple of years ago. Now that another element has stopped working it's time to repair or replace the unit. In both cases the "on" light illuminates but the radiant element does heat when the respective selector is turned on. The unit is eleven years old. The heating elements cost about $100. each. It is a granite counter top drop in unit without any appearant mechanical installation fasteners.
My questions are: 1. Is the problem the heating element or some other component. 2. I am reasonably handy and have a nice selection of common tools; should I attempt the repair on my own. 3. If a self repair is appropriate what are some guidelines that should be followed.
Thanks, Mark

[Gene]

...My questions are:

1. Is the problem the heating element or some other component.

2. I am reasonably handy and have a nice selection of common tools; should I attempt the repair on my own.

3. If a self repair is appropriate what are some guidelines that should be followed....

Mark,

1. It can be a bad heating element, infinite switch or wires. You have to figure it out by performing some continuity tests.

2. I do not think it's going to be too difficult.

3. The access to all parts is from the bottom, so the most difficult part of this project is going to be removal of the cooktop from the cabinet.

Let us know when you ready.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for THERMADOR CER30QB | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.

[Mark246810]

Gene, I have the unit (CER30QB) out, inverted, and the bottom cover is removed exposing the controls and wires (unit is unplugged). I have a meter for checking ohms, etc. All of the wires appear normal, connected and intact. As I said before, the two front burners are inop (they stopped working at separate times, more than a year apart) though the red "on" indicator lights illuminate when each control is turned on.
Can you tell me which wires I should check for continuity?
Mark

[Gene]

Mark,

All tests should be done in accordance with the wiring diagram.

The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With Ohmmeter

Gene.

[Mark246810]

Gene,
All wires/components appeared normal and intact. Isolated continuity checks were accomplished on all components. Heating elements all showed reasonable resistance values of 22-45 ohms (smallest to largest elements). All thermostats showed closed contacts on the same posts.

Only one infinite control selector showed an opened circuit only at a higher temperature range and would not account for that element not working at a lower temperature selection. The other inop burner showed good continuity on it's control selector and no other faults. (selector continuity checks were done with the cooktop inverted)

So, not identifying the cause of the two inop burners, I put the cooktop back together and all burners appear to function normally!

Therefore, there must be an intermittant problem that may or may not reoccur. Even the one showing a partial continuity problem works at the higher selected temperature.

In case the failure(s) happen again, what do you think is causing this type of intermittant failure? I could only theorize that something internal to the infinite control selectors is moving around internally such that inverting the cooktop caused the problem to go away.

Thanks, Mark

[Gene]

Mark,

Some times very strange things happens without any logical explanation. It happened to me as well. One of possibilities: it was a loose wire somewhere. Hopefully it's gone.

Gene.