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Ignitor on GE Profile XL44 model JGBP30WEA2WW

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Oven Repair (including Ranges and Cooktops)

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My problem is with my 10 year old gas range, GE Profile XL44 JGBP30WEA2WW. The oven (bake) does not work.

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2009, 05:41 PM
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Default Ignitor on GE Profile XL44 model JGBP30WEA2WW
Model Number: JGBP30WEA2WW   Brand: GE   Age: More than 10 years   

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My problem is with my 10 year old gas range, GE Profile XL44 JGBP30WEA2WW. The oven (bake) does not work. The igniter does not glow or even get hot. However, the broil functions just fine as does the cooktop.

Given this, how likely is it that just the igniter is bad? I haven't done any continuity or resistance testing on the igniter, although I own a multimeter, I had a little mishap with it recently and the tip of one of the leads melted a bit, so I'm not sure I'd obtain an accurate reading with the damaged tip.

I'm told that prior to its failure that it was exhibiting some quirky behavior (delay in lighting). This makes me think the problem lies with the igniter rather than an electronic or electrical component. I visually inspected the wiring to the igniter and everything appears to be in order down there.

Any help appreciated. I'd like to pull the trigger on buying the igniter replacement but don't want to waste my time/money if that's not the most likely issue.

Thanks! Happy turkey day to all.
J Justin


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2009, 05:52 PM
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Default Test Igniter and then ERC

If BAKING TAKES TOO LONG (GAS OVENS)
This typically happens due to a weak oven igniter. The igniter comes on several times during the baking cycle to fire up the oven burner. If the igniter is too weak, it won’t start up every time. Replacing an oven igniter is simple and inexpensive. You can switch the broiler igniter to test the oven igniter .A new oven igniter typically costs around $40-$50 and usually takes about 15-30 minutes to replace.
If you get an F1 code…
Usually means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced.
This simple test will help determine whether the ERC (Electronic Range Control or Clock) or the touch pad is defective when F1 error code is present.

Note: Some models incorporate the touch pad in to the ERC as a single assembly, in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the ERC (Clock).

Warning: If you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or making this repair, please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.

1. Disconnect power to the range (unplug the range power cord or turn the power off to the range at the circuit breaker). It is very important that the power to the range has been disconnected, so please double check before continuing.
2. Gain access inside the control panel.
3. Disconnect the touch pad (also called keypad or membrane switch) ribbon from the ERC.
4. Make sure there are no lose wires, or anything else that may cause a short when power is turned back on. Assemble the control panel back the way it was.
5. Turn the power back on.
6. Wait for at least one hour to see if the F1 code comes back (usually accompanied by a beeping sound).
7. If F1 comes back, replace the ERC. If it does not, replace the touch pad.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2009, 06:58 PM
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Default

Good Idea TB, thank you. I didn't know they were the same part.

I do have a follow up question though. I can't get the dang cooktop lid up to clean in there (I think a mouse spent some time in there, and I'd like to sanitize it). The instructions refer to just pulling up by putting your fingers into the front burner holes, but that doesnt work. I can see that the lid must obviously lift up but I'll be darned if I can figure out how. The manual mentions that there is a liftup lid but that comment refers to the standard twin burner: I have the sealed design.

Any suggestions? Is cleaning under the lid even necessary?

Last edited by J Justin : 11-25-2009 at 07:13 PM. Reason: add addtl info
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2009, 01:36 AM
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Default Diagrams for your exact model

Cleaning under cook top is a good idea. If you suspect mice visited, even a better idea. I have 3 links for your model below so you can get a visual of your exact unit (sealed lid).
Remember to unplug your oven before working on it.

Warning: If you feel in any way uncomfortable performing this test or making this repair, please contact a qualified appliance repair technician.



Replacement parts for GE JGBP30WEA2WW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Control panel & cooktop replacement parts for GE JGBP30WEA2WW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Gas burner parts replacement parts for GE JGBP30WEA2WW | AppliancePartsPros.com

Remember to remove the burner assemblies, control panel assembly, and some models require the sides removed before the top can be removed.
The screws along the top of each side panel can share the same locator for the top panel or lid.
( part 117 in link #2 above )

Never force or pry the top. I hope that helps.
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