So my 1st post here is a bit of a doozy. Turned RF stove burner on a Model GE jbp35b0h1ct on 2 days before Christmas and briefly turned the kitchen into the 4th of July. Breaker tripped. In digging into it, a ceramic wire nut used to replace the RF terminal block roughly six months ago decided to crack. Whether this caused or was the result of the short I don't know.

Looking no further, I replaced the RF block and wiring to it with a supplied home run of wiring to the switch. When the burner came on immediately after plugging the unit back into the 220 outlet without turning the burner itself on, I unplugged and dug deeper. Turned out that the RF burner switch also fried at the bottom of the infinite contact point itself as opposed to the bottom right spade pin. Got the correct replacement. Plugged everything back in. Burner worked fine until a sheet pan was placed on the stove top over both the LF and LR burners which caused yet another pyrotechnic display to the point that holes were arced out of the sheet pan. Breaker did NOT trip that time. Burner indicator is now on 24/7 when no burners are turned on. Beeping formerly associated with pushing control buttons no longer happens. RF burner barely warms up now. New RF switch appears to be intact, i.e. infinite switch did not arc out.

I'm at the end of my diagnostic ability as I know enough about electricity to know that I'm not an electrician and don't have the requisite knowledge to diagnose with a meter. The block and switch were short (no pun intended) money ($10 & $15) compared to a control panel ($75) so I don't want to haphazardly throw any more parts at this problem.

Of course, a service call @ $80-90 minimum and virtually any other part replacement will pretty much bring about the conversation as to whether it is just better to buy a new unit altogether. Figured I'd see what the general consensus might be here before making that decision.

TIA for any brain power you may be able to provide.