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DCS Oven ignitor issue

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My DCS-RG305 Range broiler was not working, ignitor was not glowing. I checked the voltage on the ignitor leads (it

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Old 11-26-2016, 03:53 PM
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Default DCS Oven ignitor issue
Model Number: RG305   Brand: -other-   Age: More than 10 years   

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My DCS-RG305 Range broiler was not working, ignitor was not glowing. I checked the voltage on the ignitor leads (it was 118v) so I assumed it was the ignitor. Picked up a replacement at local appliance part store. I installed it and tested it without gas and it glowed red for 5 seconds. Turned it off, turned on gas, and it lit up again, gas came on and ignited. Then I heard a loud noise and turned it all off. Ignitor had busted at tip. I assumed it was a bad ignitor and the appliance parts store replaced it. Checked voltage again, and installed new ignitor. It won't even light up. Checked the voltage again (it was 118v), and then checked the resistance on the ignitor and it was 176 ohms. The service manual for the oven says it should be between 110 and 135. Did I get 2 bad ignitor's? Is that likely, or is something else going on? Is there something else I can check?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2016, 05:21 PM
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I'm not finding anything with your model number. What brand is it?

Was your original igniter round or flat? How old is this range?
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Old 11-26-2016, 05:57 PM
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The Brand is DCS, it is made by Fisher-Paykel. It is over 10 years old. The ignitor he gave me to replace the original was RobertShaw 41-206. It is flat. https://www.robertshaw.com/Products/...cat=2147484238
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:21 PM
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That's a generic igniter. Did you match it up by size or cross-ref the original part number? Igniters are very sensitive to vibration and mechanical shocks. Also you should never touch the ceramic end, it will cause it to burn up.

I did find a model no. RGT-305. Its PDF shows two different igiters for bake a broil.

https://www.appliancefactoryparts.co.../140404-12.pdf
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Old 11-26-2016, 06:27 PM
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Fisher Paykel looks like this

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Old 11-26-2016, 07:06 PM
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Yes, that is what the ignitor looks like. It is for the boiler. The first one lit up fine, but broke after. The second one which was the exact same model did not light up at all.
I was very careful not to touch the ignitor. I took it back out after it did not light and it looks fine.
If this is not the correct part why would the first one light up?
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Old 11-26-2016, 07:34 PM
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Those igniters run on 110 to 120 volts AC. You should be able to wire on up to a lamp cord and test them. Just be careful. They get yellow hot after a couple of minutes and will set fire to anything to close to them. Actual resistance varies from one to the next. I personally never go by resistance.

Its quite possible to encounter two bad igniters. Perhaps the third time will be the charm. Good luck.
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:46 PM
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I wired up the ignitor to a lamp cord and it lit right up. There must be something else wrong with my oven. Transformer? Any other suggestions? Is it time for the repairman?
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:29 AM
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The parts of the igniter circuit are in series. The power comes from the range's hot side of the cord, goes to the control (electronic computer or mech. thermostat) then it goes to the gas valve then to the igniter and back to the neutral line on the cord.

Anything that breaks the circuit will stop it from glowing. I usually take my volt meter and work my way through the circuit until I find what is stopping the power.
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Old 11-27-2016, 06:16 AM
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The first thing I did I did was check the voltage on the ignitor leads, and it was 118v. Which I assume is fine. So I assume I could have 2 problems. 1: The ignitor is not working correctly or is the wrong one. It is requiring a higher amperage than what the oven provides so it works on the lamp cord in a socket but not in the oven. 2: The ignitor is fine but the ignitor circuit is not providing the correct amperage.
I don't have a amperage meter but I am going to borrow one and see what it amperage on the circuit is, and then check the ignitor on the lamp cord and see what it is requiring.
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